Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,103 Posts1,056,534 Members48,448 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 | what tooling do you use ? i have a little 3 finger gear puller but the fingers are too thick. any help is appreciated!!thanks | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | t5stang91,
The cam gear is pressed on pretty darn tight. It is best to press if off with a shop press of some sort.
The crank gear is often merely slipped on by hand. I would try a couple of screwdrivers to pry with first...it might just slip off. If this doesn't work then a two finger puller would do the trick.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If we are talking about a stovebolt here, the cam gear is removed in a press. The "crank gear" has two threaded holes if it is original. These are used with a puller. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 | yes a stovebolt.i am gonna take apart my '62 235 soon and i noticed on a old 216 i had that was junk it didn't come apart that easy but i was just wondering, didn't recall any holes in the crank gear but there may have been. thanks for the help. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | My replacement gear on the crankshaft did not have holes. My machinist told me that if it doesn't have holes, just take a good stout chisel and give it a shot in a tooth notch near the keyway and it will crack the gear. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Fred,
I think all the crank gears I have encountered were steel. I might buy the cracking gear on a cast unit but find it hard to believe on a machined steel gear...but I am not a automotive machinist.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Stuart,
I haven't had to try it out. He seemed to know his stuff and I guess if it works, it must be hardened steel. I haved removed bearing races on an axle using a similar technique. They shattered like glass. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 | I've always followed the shop manual instructions with no problems. These pages are from the 1955-2nd manual, but I believe the 62 would be the same. page 6-22 page 6-23 page 6-32 As I recall, the crankshaft gear usually pulls off fairly easily. Hoyt | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The factory method of removing the crankshaft gear is great, if it is original. However, some of the replacement gears do not have the threaded holes for the puller. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,835 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,835 | The flat rate trick on the fiber timing gears was to break the gear away with a pry bar, and then use a chisel over the keyway to remove the metal hub. A set of 2-jaw puller jaws with a little custom grinding will hook into the thrust plate bolt access holes and pull the metal cam gears. Yes a crank gear will split, but it takes a sharp chisel and a BFH applied with some energy to make it happen. There's usually enough room behind the crank gear to accomodate a 3-jaw puller if there are no bolt holes in it. We always used a metal gear, either aluminum or cast iron, as a replacement for the cam gear, and heated it so it was a slip fit over the cam snout. Just make sure to get the timing marks aligned on the first try, as you won't get a second attempt!
Jerry
Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 11/29/2009 4:57 PM.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 17 | ok thanks for the help. i will get to it in a couple weeks here , maybe sooner. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Just make sure to get the timing marks aligned on the first try, as you won't get a second attempt!
Jerry Huh! Aren't crank & cam gears keyed to the respective shafts? No chance for misalignment here. Aligning timing marks involves moving the cam to the desired position with the crank gear, and this can be done easily and/or repeatedly by merely pulling the cam out slightly and repositioning it. I must have misunderstood the thrust of HRL's comment. Stuart | | |
|
|
