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| | | Forums66 Topics128,164 Posts1,056,966 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 49 | My son and I are restoring a 1941 Chev 1/2 ton. There are some questions we need to ask but will start with the rear window installation. The window was removed by someone else. I am not sure if all the parts are with the truck but we have the glass, the rubber seal and the metal ring. The seal is about 3 feet long and there are no holes in it, but there are holes in the retaining ring. What is the best way of installing this seal and window | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Not sure if this is the right way, however it worked for my '40 Laid out glass on 3/4" plywood, traced perimeter. Banged in nails around the perimeter, and laid rubber gasket material around nails to determine correct length. Glued ends together. Put a little vaseline on each " stud " location on metal frame, then set it down onto the rubber gasket to locate holes. Drilled rubber gasket. 2 man job to install window - need to get screws started from inside while pressing hard on outside. Once screws are all started, tighten a few turns alternating until all snug. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | That's ingenious britcon. I bet you could let your rubber sit around the nails for a few days to help with the shaping of the corners too. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 101 | Subscribing to this thread.
I've got a "46" (but it's got a '41 cab I found out). I bought it without the rear window being in it. The seller gave me the new window & rubber he bought from Jim Carters, but not the metal ring. I found a ring, though has a few minor waves. Will those "pull out" by installing it, or should I do some straightening of it with a mallet?
So Britcon, what do you glue the ends together with? I had no idea that had to be done, I thought the ends just butted together at the bottom center of the window. Why would you use the nails? Why can't you just wrap the rubber around the window with the glass IN the rubber groove and THEN set the metal ring down on the rubber to drill the holes? Does anyone know if the Steele brand rubber comes pre-drilled? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 | I got my rubber ring from Chevy’s of the 40’s. It came as a complete circle, the ends were already glued. Using the outside metal piece as a guide I drilled the screw holes. What I did find was that the holes had to be larger on the outside to allow the thread bosses to set into the rubber. Be very careful to tighten the bolts evenly. That outside piece is a zinc (pot metal) die-casting | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 18 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 18 | Dan,
Extruded window rubbers, after cut to length and fitted to your taste, glue them with Loctite "Black Max 380". It is from the family of superglues so take care not to glue your fingers. It is perfect for bonding rubber ends together. Very strong bond.
Can be had at most industrial supply stores that sell Loctite products. Not all carry it in stock, it is easy to get though. After use, store in fridge, it will prolong the life of the remainder in tube.
Rick M.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 49 | Ok, Guys --Thanks for the tip. Your explaination sounds good. When the weather warms up here, will let you know how it works. We probably got more question for this forum as we slowly restore our 41 chev 1/2 ton. Pictures will also be coming soon.
41 Chevy | | |
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