The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Otto Skorzeny, klhansen, Hotrod Lincoln, Peggy M), 108 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,050
Posts1,055,759
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#58823 04/05/2006 9:20 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
Is there an easy way to know roughly what duration cam I got in my engine? Stock, mild or hot?
I never had another engine and can't compare with another known stock or modified engine.

I have a 1962 235 with a 1955 9-1/4 flywheel (original trans) with BB, 5 and triangle marks.
It seems the triangle indicates max. possible advance at 32-34*
If I time the engine at the recommended 5* mark per shop manual, it never comes close to pinging and the exhaust is rapping like crazy at deceleration - as in too retarded.
It seems to run much better, if I time it around the triangle. Then I get slight pinging at WOT uphill and hardly any rapping in the exhaust when decelerating.
The engine is smoother, quieter and responds better when accelerating.

Could it be that I have a non-stock cam with higher duration that likes more max. advanced timing?
It does feel a little bumpy and uneven at 500 rpm idle and smoothes out only after 800-1000 rpm.
Also I noticed at 2500-3000 rpm the engine is smoother and quieter and runs very nice without overheating.

It doesn't sound or feel like it, but I am worried that I am running too advanced and may damage the pistons.


On the road every day...
1952 Truck - 235
1948 Coupe - 261
#58824 04/05/2006 9:52 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Set it where it pings & then retard it just enough to stop the pinging. That is the best setting & will not damage pistons. It,s doubtful you have a modified cam in it. They are pretty rare in those engines.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
#58825 04/06/2006 12:37 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
You are right - that's what seems to be the best setting. Been running it that way for many years, every day.
I checked TDC on cyl#1 and the pointer is perfectly above the BB on the flywheel. I also have the correct distributor and vacuum adv. for the year.

I just never knew why this engine prefers base timing at idle to be set so far advanced at the triangle mark, which I understand is the total advance recommended for these engines after max. centrifugal advance.
However I'm already there at idle...

I often wondered about the cam.
This engine was rebuilt at some point. It has a 55 head and the crank is also not original as it only accepts the smaller 55 flywheel.
But I also can't imagine anything but a stock cam.


On the road every day...
1952 Truck - 235
1948 Coupe - 261
#58826 04/07/2006 7:24 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 455
Just a quick note:

Learned that the triangle is actually used to check cam timing.

Also found other bolters in past threads, who had best results using it as the timing mark, rather than the BB.


On the road every day...
1952 Truck - 235
1948 Coupe - 261
#58827 04/08/2006 5:32 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,402
J
Former Workshop Owner
Former Workshop Owner
J Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,402
I'm no expert, but I doubt that you can identify which cam you would have without taking it out and taking some accurate measurements. Unless there are some numbers stamped on it. That would also require removal, unless its stamped on the end.

John


~ J Lucas
2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6
2023 Ram 2500/Cumins 6.7 I6
2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Wife’s)
2002 Silverado 2500 Gas 6.0
1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1942 Chevy 1.5-Ton SWB
In the Gallery
My Flicker Photos!
#58828 04/09/2006 12:30 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 159
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 159
You can check total cam lift with the cam in the engine using a dial indicator .You could then compare to specs of a stock cam.This would at least give you a starting point.You may have to do some research to find the stock specs?


In the works 2006 GEN III 6.0 /4L80E/ 205 New process,A/C and power brakes .

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0