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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 50
B
Wrench Fetcher
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Folks - Every post I've ever seen on the clutch shaft pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft referes to a bronze bushing. My bushing is bronze also. I recently found what appears to be the correct part for my 235 that is the correct O.D., I.D., and length, but it' a needle bearing bushing. Anyone have any experience using this bushing? Good or bad? Thanks - Bug


1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Iv,e used them & like them. Be shure to pack some grease in it.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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I had the same question a few months back when I was putting in my new 235. I opted to stay with the bronze bushing. I was using my original 1940 transmission and there was a small amount of wear on the end of the input shaft that goes into the bushing. I was concerned that uneven contact on the needle bearing rollers could cause them to bind and gall the shaft. Also, my experience with antique motorcycles has show than shafts that are designed to run in bushings originally are not hardened that same as shafts that are designed to run on needle bearings. Needle bearings require are harder surface to run on because the the shaft acts as an inner race. Those needles are a lot harder than the bronze bushing.

I figured the old bushing lasted 65 years, so a new one ought to last at least that long considering the amount of driving I do with it.

Steve


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When I replaced the throw-out bearing in a 52, I also replaced the bushing with the needle bearing type.

Never had a problem with it, and the old-timer I had doing the work suggested that it was a better option.

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T
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I do not like the needle bearings. I have a repair shop & we replace the needle bearing types with the bronze bushing types. Always soak the bronze bushings for as long as you can- we keep a Ford bushing & a GM bushing soaking in oil for weeks or months until we use them. I have never h ad a problem with them. I can't say that about the needle bearing types.the needle bearing type has a very small and hard bearing which tends to lose lubricant/grease and then begins to gouge & wear the input bearing surface on the trans input shaft. A bronze bearing will NEVER do that. It may wear out. but never damage the trans shaft.

Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
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GMC used the bearings, Chevrolet used the bushings.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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I'm running the needle bearing pilot with my T5 tranny.. Works great so far. 10,000 miles and counting. cool

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'Bolter
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I too replace the bearing with a bronze bushing, I have seen too many input shafts ruined when the bearing fails. Our local GM dealer won't put the bearing back in if a bronze bushing is available.

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FOlks - Thanks for the comments...having read them all I think I'm leaning towards the bronze bushing. I'm not concerned about the hardness of the shaft material but the surface finish on the nose of the shaft is rough compared to other parts of the shaft that do serve as a needle bearing race. I agree potential for damage to the shaft with the bronze is much less if the bushing fails and while the clutch is engaged the shaft is turning with the crankshaft so there is no drag or horsepower loss... it would be interesting to understand why the manufacturers went to needle bearings in the first place. I won't be able to post the needle bearing part number until Saturday, I found it on an Auto Parts stores on-line site searching under clutches for a 60's chevy pickup with a 235 engine. Thanks again for the help on this - Bug


1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup
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Needle bearing design will help the clutch operation .The less friction on the imput shaft when the clutch is disengauged will make for a smoother shift and noise .I use them every time they are available.


In the works 2006 GEN III 6.0 /4L80E/ 205 New process,A/C and power brakes .
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Thanks, that makes sense, what the heck, I think I'll polish the shaft nose up with some estremely fine steel wool and use the needle bearing. NAPA part number on my bearing is B657. By the way, I used the "wet toilet paper" method of removing the bronze bushing and it worked. It didn't just pop out like some describe, I had to keep packing and pounding but it came out undamaged. Regards, Bug


1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup
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You can use the grease gun method also and save the P.T. for emergencys .Good Luck Bug


In the works 2006 GEN III 6.0 /4L80E/ 205 New process,A/C and power brakes .
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'Bolter
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You'll be pleased with the needle bearing untill it fails and destroys your input shaft. I have sold several input shafts at work due to the bearing going out.

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Thanks for everyone's opinion on this subject, I learned a lot .... and I'm going to the bronze because I heard no potential downside on using bronze. Final Answer! By the way, I wouldn't dream of doing what I did to that bushing with grease .... it would have made Gallager look like an amature. Thanks again for everyone's help on this. - Bug


1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup

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