The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop needle sticking with load

I have a 235 with a 1bbl rochester running with an electric fuel pump. I have a good flow of fuel running to the carb at all times even when driving. It will idle with no problems at all and I can throttle up the carb and still have no problems.

The problem I've been having is dying after about three blocks of driving. When it dies I can't get it running again unless I do two different things. 1. continue to have someone pour fuel into the carb until it is able to run by itself. 2. pull the steel fuel line off the carb and blow into the carb. (most of the time the needle falls immediately and I don't have a problem blowing into the carb)

I've done a few things myself to clear up the problem.. however they have failed. First, I replaced the fuel lines to prevent any deteoration... replaced the fuel pickup... and had the fuel tank cleaned and replaced the fuel filters. The fuel running through the filters look clean of debry.. My next step was playing with the float and needle settings. I've ran it adjusted to the kits recs... same problem.. I've played with the settings my self with no luck.. its back to kit recs again...

I've heard a few posts about fuel pressure.. can too high of fuel pressure cause the needle sticking? what should the pressure be at? I ran into this problem with my mechanical fuel pump and electric.. Also I've been wondering about vacuum lines? I have a new steel line from my vac advance and I have blocked off the line running to the windshield wipers.. those are the only lines I see..

any ideas?

sounds to me like either the float, or the shut off valve is sticking...i've seen those shut off valves stick.

Solved hat problem with a pressure regulator.
Pressure is set between 2.5 and 3 psi (on Weber/Holley carbs)

I got a Malpassi Filter King, it is a filter with build in pressure regulator and looks verry vintage.

[img]http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2774/scoop49td.jpg[/img]

Frank