The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tired 235 Needs Your Help

I have a 51 1/2ton Chevy with a 54 Chevy 235 that's VERY tired. It needs a total rebuild and I do not have the money to do that right now. My immediate problem is the plugs foal quickly even though I do try to get it out for a drive around town a few times each week. I have taken it out for longer drives thinking that might blow it out a little better put she immediately starts misfiring and I end up limping home, pulling the plugs to clean and re-gap them, and hope that she'll fire up the next time. I've rebuilt the Rochester carb to at least give the engine a fighting chance, but it really needs the engine overhaul.

Anyone out there have any suggestions as to how I can extend the engine life a little longer (i.e. oil I should be using, any engine additives I can use, etc.)? Thanks.

Have you tried 20W-50 oil formulated for high-milage engines?

Save the foals, they will eventually become horses.

Have you tried using hotter (a higher number) spark plug? Especially when the weather is cooler, a hotter plug will usually help, but not get rid of the main problem.

I use 1 Qt. of Rislone as an oil additive.

Adam

Guys - Thanks for the input. I was going to ask about the plugs. Adam, I'm using AC Delco R45's right now. I asked the local auto store for the standard plug for a 54 235 and that's what they gave me. Since we are getting into warmer weather, will a hotter plug make much of a difference at this point? Also, if I do use a hotter plug, will I need to change the timing or carb settings?

Another thing that is cheap fix and may be part of your oil consumption problem is replace the intake valve seals. You can do it without taking off the head. Go by and pay a visit to a local engine rebuild guy and have a nice talk with him.
Good luck to you.

Another SHORT TERM possibility is a set of something I can't remember the name for: Basically it screws into where your spark plugs go and then your plugs screw into it. I used those things in a tired old engine with hotter plugs and it quit fouling so much.

52PU's suggestion about vavle seals might help too.

You are gonna have to rebuild sometime soon! Start shopping for parts on E-bay, I've seen gasket sets, cams, valves, rods, etc... for cheaper than elsewhere. Do searches under Chevy 235 AND chevrolet 235

The things that NM51 is referring to are called "Anti foulers " The do go on thr end of your plugs and will keep the oll from building up on the plugs so fast. I had good luck with them years ago. Any good auto parts store with an older guy working there should know what you are talking about. Will definately buy you some time. About the same price as a set of plugs.

When searching on ebay, typing chev* 235 will give you all the iterations such as chevrolet, chevy and chev.

Thanks to all for your responses and the tip on exploring ebay for parts. Cabover - When you used the anti foulers, did you also use a hotter plug as Adam suggested? Also, did you have to reset the timing or carb when you used them?

R45 is the hottest AC puts out now. If you get the R45S it has the extended tip & performs better. The timing & carb adjustment aren,t nessesary. Also J.C. Whitney still sells the Aldor brand spark plugs. They fire in oil.

The AC Delco R45 should be a good choice of plug to use.

Does the engine consume an excessive amount of oil?
Is there any blue smoke that comes out the tailpipe? If so is this blue smoke occuring when you first start the engine up for the first few minutes of warming up?

The valve stem seals can be replaced fairly easily. A common indicator is if the engine burns blue smoke when you first start the engine up, then it could be the valve seals.

If you do a compression test and the results show that the piston rings are poor then this leads to a complete overhaul.

Good Luck,
Adam

NM 51 and Cabover - I found the anti foulers at AutoZone (the brand they carry calls them "non foulers," but they are obviously the same thing you're talking about). The package says you are suppose to use them on "half the number of cylinders in your engine" and that you should use them with the "original or lower heat range plug." Q; Do you think the R-45s plugs are too hot for the anti foulers, and what plug size did the 54 235 truck engine use originally? Q: Why would you use them on only three cylinders and not all six? Thanks.

Are your plugs fouling because of oil? or gas? I think the anti foulers will only help if your plugs are fouling because of oil bypass. Thus the reason for "colder plugs" on the instruction package. The advice about "hotter" plugs is good if your plugs are fouling because of too much gas. A good tune-up might also help. (Advance the timing "just a hair")

I'm not much of a mechanic, but I believe finding the cause of the problem is much better in the long run than hiding or masking it. These trucks run great without help from after market stuff when every thing is working. How's the choke cable and linkage working? What about your fuel pump and filter. How old is the gas? Check the simple stuff 1st. Just my 2 cents.

'49' - I'm quite sure it's oil. I've taken the plugs out a few times and found them, if not wet, pretty damp with oil. Also, the smoke is sort of gray, certainly not white. It's probably the rings, but when I take care of that, I want to do a total rebuild. Because of the expense, I'm just trying to get through the summer. I did rebuild the carb, put in new points and tuned it just recently. I think I've done all I could regarding the gas side of things. Thanks for your input.

'bigmac' - Yep, my original thinking was the same as yours, but I believe I've done all I could in that regard, including the items you mentioned. Before I rebuilt the carb, I drained the gas tank, cleaned it out, put a new fuel pump on and additional in-line gas filter, changed the filter in the glass bowl filter, pulled the cables, serviced them and reset them, and added fresh gas. I did all the less-expensive maintenance things I could do. I believe you are right on with your comments about finding the cause. I hope to be in a position to "do it right" in the Fall with a engine rebuild. The comments I've gotten from all the Stovebolters should get me through the Summer. Thanks to all.