Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Otto Skorzeny, Steelonsteel, Gdads51, J Lucas, Peggy M, dt235sd, walter74, klhansen),
127
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,036 Posts1,055,454 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | Hey all, I am helping my buddy still with the 1953 3/4 ton with the 216. His engine runs smoothly, but has developed a deep sounding knock sound at certain RPM. Its sounds very deep in tone, coming from the middle area of the engine. I am thinking rod bearing- We went through the valves and the obvious stuff. Could dirty oil cause this noise- I doubt it but thought I would ask here first before taking the pan off and checking the engine. Engine does have tendency to run hot when at speed- and cools off when you slow down. Does not overheat. Main bearings where checked and adjusted in accordance with the shop manual.
Thanks for the help. Sam | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Sam,
A rod, at least to my ear, wouldn't be described as a 'deep' knock while a main bearing would. If it's a rod bearing, you should be able to get it to bang at will.
Revving the engine up and gradually letting the throttle fall will let the rods float for a second and should make any offending rod knock. If the exact cylinder can be found, pulling the plug can sometimes make it knock a bit more steady and pronounced as there is not explosion in that cylinder.
Don't rule out goofy things like a water pump or a generator that's gone south. Use a length of rubber heater hose as a stethoscope to pinpoint the origin of the noise.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I would add that a main bearing will knock at low RPM under heavy load.
Last edited by truckernix; 09/29/2009 11:43 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 | I'm a little confused- - - -how were the main bearings checked without pulling the oil pan? I'd suggest disconnecting spark plug wires one at a time to try to isolate the noise to a particular cylinder. A severely damaged piston will also cause a noise, but the "clang" description isn't something that's usually associated with internal engine noises. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | I will, the main bearings were just re-shimmed about 200 miles prior to the new noise- At the time the owner did not have the time to get the rod bearings re-shimmed-
Well I think the plan will be to isolate which cylinder the noise is coming from(I have a stethoscope)
Then to figure out what is happening-
I have ruled out the heavy load- this is when driving around town, on the highway(50 mph), and can even be reproduced when sitting static in the shop while pushing the accelerator.
We will do some investigating and let you know what we find, and I am sure we will have more questions. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | ok rods and main bearings check out ok- wrist pins ok
The vacuum advance line is crooked into the advance mechanism. Could vacuum advance problems leak to the knocking sound from pre-ignition, which would also cause the extra heat on the engine when at speed? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | Yes. It could cause the timing to be, well, to be too advanced. Hahahaha I think that this would show up under heavy load, flat out in fourth from 20 mph.
Running hot can be the timing too far advanced.
Have you verified the timing statically? Multi meter across the points, just breaking contact at the mark?
Running lean can cause this too. What about a vacuum leak?
Does this happen right off of idle? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | Vacuum leak, just found it. sound is going away quickly now that it is fixed. Thanks all | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | | | |
| |