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Joined: Jan 2008
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Wrench Fetcher
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I have read all of the tech article that was written by Grigg and I still have a question. If the only difference between the wheels is that one is hub piloted, and simply held on by the flat-faced lugnuts, and the stud-piloted is held and centered by the cone-faced lugnuts, then why can't an early truck simply use a stud-piloted wheel with the correct lugnuts? Unless I am missing some glaring difference (which I have been known to do)I fail to see why it can't be done and safely.

Ok Grigg, I am ready for my flaming now-- so please educate me.
Thanks,
John

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Grigg, I just saw your reply to my email. I have the clamp plates on both fronts, and the 10 lug on the rears. All the wheels seem to be originals.I understand that mine are the hub-piloted with the flat lugnuts. I can't see a reason why I couldn't switch to a stud-piloted wheel and use the correct lugnuts.The lug circle is identical on either wheel according to the chart in the tech article. If I wanted to use a stud-piloted on the front, I would have to make a new 5 lug clamp plate to match the conical lugnuts, but the rears should bolt on. Must be something I am missing? Are the lugs themselves identical between year models?

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hy sbafarm, if the stud pattern is the same, and the center hole is large enough then you could use either wheel in that situation, with the correct hardware. However most wheels that I've come across that have a common size bolt pattern, will have a center hole that will not allow hub piloted wheels to be installed on a stud piloted hub. All that being said, I have never come across a wheel for the Chev 5/10 pattern which was designed for stud piloted hardware.

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Wrench Fetcher
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What I would like to be able to do is install a standard stud-piloted wheel on my truck that used a hub-piloted originally with the small 4.75 centerhole.

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'Bolter
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SB, why do you want to switch to stud mount? Stud pilot was very common on over the road truck trucks for many years, but hub pilot is pretty much the standard now simply because it eliminates many of the problems associated with stud pilots. You have a a very good mounting system. Why do want to change it? As 3B mentioned, I don't think think You will find wheels with the seat for the mounting ball in your bolt pattern. If you don't like your wheels, I am looking for a set for a 2 ton GMC.

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Wrench Fetcher
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There seems to be a wider availability of wheels for a studmount system versus a hub mount-- WITH the small center hole. Plus, I can then go to a tubless. I have also thought about going to a super-single style in the rear if I can find a wheel with the correct offset, bolt circle etc. If I was ready to buy the new wheels at this time, you could have the ones I have now-- free of charge.

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Originally Posted by sbafarm
There seems to be a wider availability of wheels for a studmount system versus a hub mount-- WITH the small center hole. Plus, I can then go to a tubless. I have also thought about going to a super-single style in the rear if I can find a wheel with the correct offset, bolt circle etc...
Have you done your research on these "options" you list? Where are such wheels available?

Something sounds fishy, or lost in translation, can't figure where we're getting confused...

-Do your hubs have 10 studs on the rear and 5 on the front, both with a 7.25" bolt circle diameter?

-Does the pilot area on your hubs measure 4.75" as well as the center hole in your wheels?

If the above are true then I have never seen a stud piloted wheel new or old to fit.
I've also never seen a tubeless wheel that is a direct fit (differing center hole diameter).
Don't know of any "super singles" with that bolt pattern.

What are you trying to accomplish?

Grigg



•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2008
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Wrench Fetcher
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I think something lost-- My truck is pretty much original-- 10 lug rears , 4.47 center hole, 7.25 lugbolt circle-- front is a 5 lug with a clamp plate-- It is a 53.
Now, according to your chart in the tech tips, the later trucks (post 53) have stud-piloted wheels with a 7.25 lug circle ( same as mine) but a 5.25 center hole. My original question is can later model wheels with the correct lug circle and the 5.25 center be used on my truck with the correct stud-pilot lugnuts without any center hole spacer-- the lugs should center the wheel. Reason-- seems that the later wheel dimensions are more common i.e. the P30 19.5 wheels.

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Originally Posted by sbafarm
..Now, according to your chart in the tech tips, the later trucks (post 53) have stud-piloted wheels with a 7.25 lug circle ( same as mine) but a 5.25 center hole. My original question is can later model wheels with the correct lug circle and the 5.25 center be used on my truck with the correct stud-pilot lugnuts without any center hole spacer-- the lugs should center the wheel. Reason-- seems that the later wheel dimensions are more common i.e. the P30 19.5 wheels.

No, The later trucks and all trucks with that 10 lug on 7.25" bolt circle have hub piloted wheels.
Here's the tech tip again: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/ chart is about half way down.

The confusion may be that when Chevy (starting in 56) and GMC used a large 6 lug bolt pattern they are stud piloted true Budd wheels.

the P30 wheels and the 56-59 Chevy 1.5 ton 22.5" tubeless wheels with the same bolt pattern are hub piloted with a 5.25" center hole.

You'll need the bushings/adapters to use the larger center hole wheels on your older truck.
Countersinking newer wheels to imitate stud centered wheels is not at all a good idea, there is not enough thickness in the wheel center to do it safely on these steel wheels.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 77
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks Grigg-- now I get it. I mis-understood the chart and explanation. I thought the later truck wheels were stud piloted.


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