The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts From Generators to getting it started.

OK, first of all I would like to apologize for all the stupid questions but I am new to this old stuff (wow did that even make sense?)
Now this is where I sit. (still working on the 1938 1 1/2 ton with original engine)
Yesterday no spark, engine would crank. :mad:
Today, Replaced distributor cap, rotor, wires, and bought a 6 volt coil. Now I have spark and good spark.
I have had the gas tank out of the truck for months (waiting to get it cleaned up.)
so I figure good spark, turns over, needs fuel to start.
So like any other truck I have ever owned here comes the carb cleaner.
spray lots (like almost a whole bottle) of carb spray in the engine while son is in the truck holding down the starter.
truck is cranking but it won't even sputter.
I can't even get a little bit of pressure built up.
now this is the first "low compression" engine I have ever worked on. so what is my next step we are stumped, getting spark, firing order has been checked, I don't know how to time the thing but I figure it can't be that much out of time for just sitting.
So I publicly show my ignorance and beg you masters of knowledge, please help me get this truck to at least start.
where do I go from here?
Thanks

Hy 38 tow, okay here goes, remove number 1 spark plug, hold your thumb or a finger over the hole, have someone bump the engine over until air starts to come out of tha hole, stop bumping the engine. Now remove the distributer cap and see where the rotor is pointing, if you can turn the engine over by hand, place something in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over to make sure it is all the way to the top, verify which terminal the rotor is pointing at, that should be the number one spark plug terminal, if it isn't then you will have to adjust the spark plug wires, if the wire is the one to number one cylinder, then verify that the rest are correct, firing order is 153624 clockwise from number one terminal. If the rotor is between terminals loosen the clamp screw at the distributer base and rotate the distributer until the rotor is lined up with a terminal, make that your number one terminal and wire the others as per the firing order, hope that helps more than it confuses.

Wow, this is the fun part!!! There's no moment like the first time a truck fires!

OK - so, first off, I'll throw this out: my mechanic buddy, and others, shy away from starter fluid. Something about its explosiveness blowing holes in the pistons or something. Never had a problem with it personally, but others claim to have, and heck, one time is one time too many. We use gasoline in a squirt bottle - which is fairly controllable. Only put a little in the bottle at a time, for safety. Any-who . . .

You didn't mention the carb: Is the carb on the manifold? I'm guessing this truck would have had the same-ish Carter W-1 that the 216 had until about 1950.

If you take the valve cover off, do all the rocker arms seem like their moving ok? And if you pull all the spark plugs and feel the holes while it turns over, can you feel compression in each cylinder hole? Any chance of doing a proper compression test?

Regardless, If 3B's method doesn't work for you, here's how we rough-time it: As you can see by the firing order that 3B gave, cylinder six is the "sympathetic" cylinder to #1. That means that as #1 approaches top-dead center, number six is approaching valve overlap, exactly 180 degrees opposite #1. This gives us a way to use #6 to determine where #1 TDC is.

So, as you turn the engine over, watch the valves on number six (at the rear). When you see the exhaust rocker (dead last one) go down, pay close attention. Keep going slowly, and watch the #6 intake rocker arm (second-to-last rocker at the rear). When it starts to go down (open) and the exhaust is starting to come up (close), that's overlap. Stop turning.

You should be very close to TDC. You can check the hole on the passenger side of the bell-housing, with a pointer sticking down in the middle. Shine a flashlight down there, and look for a mark on the flywheel. There is a BB at exact TDC, with a triangle before it (I think I'm remembering this right). Either way, you're close enough to check the rotor, which should be pointed toward the wire going to #1 cylinder. To get it exactly, keep turning really slowly until the BB is lined up on the pointer.

You can then loosen and rotate the distributor so that the points are JUST opening. You should be able to eye-ball this close enough to get fire out of her. If you really wanna be precise, you can clip the leads of your multi-meter (in continuity mode) to the two posts on the outside of the distrib. body. (or, on the post on the coil side with one lead, and ground on the other). You should get tone (continuity) when the points are still touching, lose tone the instant they open.

By-the-way, if you don't have an easy way to turn the engine over by hand, my buddy taught me to, from the driver's side, push in on the fan belt with one hand to keep it tight, and turn the fan clockwise (pull it toward you over the top) with the other. This 'll only work with the plugs out (oh . . . and the truck in neutral!) but it works good for me.

OK - I've probably botched something here, but someone will chime in to correct me in a minute . . .

-Michael

Don't the 216's have the window and arrow in the bell housing with a ball bearing pressed into the flywheel like the 235's?