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#57297 03/06/2006 2:21 PM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 127
O
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
O Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 127
I have a 1954 chevy truck with a 235 in it. I am going to be putting in a new cam. I was wondering what the easiest way to install the cam would be? Is it possible to leave the engine mounted in the truck and replace the cam or should i pull the engine and do it? Also what is the easiest procedure on replacing the cam? I am doing this for the first time and do not want to screw something up. Any help would be great, Thanks!!!


1954 Chevy 3100. Original 235 and Hydramatic

www.cardomain.com/ride/2344117
#57298 03/06/2006 4:58 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
Hy old54truckluvr, I would not attempt this job with the engine in the truck. When you do it use the shop manual and follow the instructions.

#57299 03/06/2006 5:39 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
There should be no reason why you can't replace the cam with the motor in place. However, you cannot do a proper job of replacing the cam bearings, if that is what you want to do.

I have pulled the cam on these motors before, mostly to change the timing gear.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#57300 03/06/2006 11:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51
Hey Old54truckluvr,

Yes you can replace the cam with the engine in the vehicle. You will have to remove the grill and radiator from your truck in order to remove the cam. As an alternative to removing the grill and the radiator you might want to consider pulling the engine to replace the cam.

It is sort of a toss-up as to which method you choose to use. It is much more easier to work on the engine when it is pulled from the vehicle and mounted on a stand. However, it takes just about as long to pull an engine as it does to remove the grill and radiator.

Just take your time and follow the procedure in the shop manual.

Good Luck,

Jon

P.S.

If you block has not been modified so you can remove the timing cover without removing the oil pan you will have to drop the oil pan to get at the two timing cover bolts located inside the oil pan. I learned this the hard way when I was an impatient rookie replacing the camshaft on a 216.

#57301 03/07/2006 3:21 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
There are some important details in the manual. There is a suggested position for the cam to be in. If you get the cam in the wrong position, it can hang up coming out. You also need to support it properly so as not to damage a cam bearing.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#57302 03/11/2006 6:47 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
Another plus to pulling the engine to replace your cam is that it gives you a chance to really get a good look at your freezeplugs and replace any bad ones while they're easy to get to.(also rear main seal,if it's beginning to leak.)
Speed


1954 GMC 350
1957 GMC 1/2 ton
1962 Chevy C-30
1952 Chevy 6400 dump bed project truck
'98 Harley FLSTC
'66 Pontiac Catalina
'76 Chevy 1 ton Duallie
'84 Bronco II
'78 Dodge W-200
'81 Toyota 4X4 truck

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