The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 73 - 87 IFS info

Yeah, but how much was it? These are pretty inexpensive in the bone yards, about $100-$200 complete. I got mine free in a trade and narrowing it cost me $60.

Is that article in the current issue?

It is an advertisement, not an article. I just looked in the July 2008 edition, and the front suspension kit is high ($1179). Fat Man Fabrication has is listed in their ad on page 19.

That's a bit pricey!! You can do it yourself for a third of that!!

nice build

Since I didn't want to hyjack the current threads are inquiring about this same suspension swap I thought I'd ask a question or two here. How did you accurately find the centerline of the donor crossmember? Did you use Steve Andereggen Jr measurements from his article?(I just tried to find the article, looks like it was removed). I meet a gentleman 10 years ago who had done the same swap to his 53. He didn't mention any bump steer or problems with the steering.

I guess my question is, what measurements did you use? Sorry if I've asked too many questions.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

I just peeked again at the Andereggen article and he appears to have assumed the front a-arm bolt is at the centerline. Based on my own measurements I'd say its real close but might not be perfect.

That piece of the suspension moves based on alignment setting and therefore isn't going to be perfect. That of course poses the question what will be perfect? And I don't have a good answer. You can measure carefully to find the center of the spindle with both wheels pointed straight ahead, but if you study the suspension design that centerline changes as the suspension moves up and down AND it changes if you adjust the alignment.

So the best you can do is get it close.

On mine I was struggling with how to get it close, and then noticed that each estimate of the centerline seemed to come very close to a pair of holes in the crossmember. These holes are near the motor mount holes and I had ignored them before. After identifying those holes I checked and they seemed to be square with everything and so close to the actual centerline that I chose to treat them as the centerline.

Compared to my ealier efforts based on aligning the wheels and determing spindle centerline using those holes, with a plumb bob suspended off a bar mounted on the original axle centerline with the bob centered in the holes, I determined my possible margin of error was less than 1/16th inch.

So I called it good and used those holes which I now consider alignment holes.

Andereggen never finished his truck with the IFS in it. He reached the conclusion his approach to mounting the steering box would result in bump steer and chose to start over with a new frame. Andereggen lives a few hundred miles from me and I was able to visit him and see his truck and shop some months ago.

I've only found one person who has performed this swap and still owns and drives the truck who I could see and talk to. He is nearly 80 years old and did the swap years ago. He lives less than 100 miles from me. One of his major points was that you have to be carefull to mount everything including the steering box in the same relationship they were in the donor truck.

I am aware of a second guy who performed the swap a couple years ago and still owns and drives the truck. He used to post here but has not been around much the last few years. This guy lives 600 miles away and I've not tried to see him. I discovered his location just a month after I drove within 100 miles of his home. If I get back that way I'll look him up.

I cut the donor frame just behind the shocks and have been using pieces of it as templates to locate the steering box and idler arm.

My weekend project is to complete the mounting of the steering box and idler arm. I'll probably post pictures eventually.

Andereggen's article is online at:

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/63-87_ifs_upgrade/index.htm

His measurements are for a 1/2-ton truck and would not be correct for a 3/4- or 1-ton.

Around here there is no such thing! I think Oldsub answered most oof your questions. There is one other article you can check out.
Good Luck

Sometimes I may be guilty of talking too much...

Robert how did you locate the IFS centerline when you did yours? Mike's question is a fair one, and one I didn't really remember anyone else clearing answering.

Also Robert, did you find the area of the frame that meets the top of the crossmember matched up flat in that area? On my 1-ton it did not, but I don't know if it does on a 1/2-ton.

I wish I would have stayed in contact with the gentleman who owned the 53, he really did a nice job. At the time, my folks owned a small burger joint and they had car shows every Saturday night during the summer and he was there.

I'm just looking for some guidance and I figure there's no better place for that, here.

Mike

Robert.

I admit, you did great work with your crossmember. You noted the issues, found solutions, and continued forward.

I put my kit together for those that wanted something simple, and different than a Mustang 2. While the S-10 is only a half ton truck, it is a truck none the less. Unlike any Mustang 2 based suspension. Plus the GM metric chassis are the basis of many race chassis, so parts are plenty, abundant, and cheap. Tubular upper A-arms for $42 is the price one pays for two stock replacement bushings and a can of Krylon

Folks like Steve (Old Sub) who are looking to put truck suspension under a truck are the folks my crossmember kit can not help, however your trek down the path that Steve Andereggen started is noble and deserves applause.

I do believe that using this cross member on the taskforce trucks and later is a real benefit as it can be made to bolt in easy without narrowing.

My hats off to you. In the end, we are all here to keep the trucks rolling, whether on stock axles, IFS kits or snowmobile skis and tracks.

Keep up the good work

Scott

I've seen posts about using the '63 to '87 IFS on a Task Force truck, and while the track width works better, the frame is wider than the crossmember and its looks like a big project. The last one I remember the guy actually cut the frame off and built his own frame clip to mount the IFS.

My conclusion is that none of these modifications are actually easy!

Thanks for thei kudos Scott. But I couldn't have done anything without the help and support from the fellow bolters on this site. I'm still tweeking my truck and believe that it will be a pretty good setup when it's done.

I must also applaude you for your metric based setup. It also looks like it's a very good suspension choice and an alternative for the mustang II.

Robert, remember it takes 10 attaboys to cancel one oh-horse-$#!T

Well i ordered the kit today from scott, Now i need my torches back and some time. I really need to get this this a rolling ASAP.

O there will be lots of ?s Comin

Jaime

Good for you!!

Mobileortho, do you have any pictures with the drop spindles installed and lowered exactly where you want it. Any tire issues?

Not yet. I haven't had alot of time to work on it as of late.

I am looking to do the same type of swap but using a 3/4 ton suspension.

The cross member design is the same on 1/2-, 3/4- and 1-ton trucks though there are differences in a-arms and other pieces moving outward.

Your challenges are mounting the IFS to the truck safely and getting the sterring box mounted in correct relationship. It appears to me the correct approach varies depending of the size of truck you're putting it all on.

I am starting with a '54 3/4 ton long bed. I have figured this is the best way to keep the truck a 3/4 ton and get IFS. I was told the overall width of the front suspensions are the same between series. I also plan to use a narrower wheel with the same or slightly more backspacing than mobileortho.

Another good point it that I am not going to do this myself. I am going to pay an friend with more experience than I have been around. it will cost me more in the long run but it will be worth it in the long end.

Take plenty of photos & keep us posted.

Good info in here thanks

Some pics of the Andereggen 84Gmc IFS on my 49 Suburban.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hzpAAY4uXXgMMTwJwEyXv9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NfrUmapTxDmU84Czl6YcFtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/w10JH1XVzas1NyYJd7187NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zLZRK6ljke6ro0fzaaOxmtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

Weeds

Im planning on doing this swap on my 49 suburban but i want it to sit real low but im also going to do front and rear airbags do you think i will need to run drop spindles? and or notch the frame and slide the cross member up so get a lower stance im going to run a 292 6cyl and 700r4 trans also would a 73-87 half ton 2wd van be the same crossmember? i know the suspension sure looks the same

This swap is a poor choice for your plans. Since you're wanting to have the thing sit really low on air bags, the 73-87 IFS track width is too wide (unless you run wheels with a huge positive offset). You're better off using a Nova clip, S-10 suspension, or mustang II as they are narrower.

Im using 15" Artillary wheels and wide white walls not big meaty wheels and tires so it should hopefully work i would think

Here's a good post on lowering the crossmember.

I ordered artillery wheels and am well aware of the standard offsets and sizes. It won't work for you if you want it bagged.

Even still, the track width is too wide. My dad has a 1941 international truck on a 75 blazer and with 7" wheels on the front (stand backspace), they come just outside of the fender. If you want to have it low on airbags, you'll be cutting the tires on the fenders. Look for something narrower, or break out a tapemeasure if you don't believe me.