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#570225 09/01/2009 3:03 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
Purchased a new steering column bearing for my 59 1/2 ton. Truck did not have one when I took it apart. How does it fit into column? Is there a trick or does it just take some persuasion with a rubber mallet? ALso where does the wire hook into?
Thanks again
Brian M

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
it should be pretty obvious how it fits, just slip it on the mast and press it into the jacket, shouldn't take much more than a bit of tapping - the wire is your horn wire, but maybe all that stuff was missing too? might find an assembly manual helpful

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
It should really be installed with a driver, a socket of the same od should work fine. The wire runs down the inside of the column to an access hole towards the bottom. There should be a cover on it. The wire itself connect to the ground wire from the horn relay.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
its going to take a little tapping. It seems tight. I started using a socket but thought I better ask first. There was no horn or wire when I got the truck. I didnt want to force it in until I was sure. I assume it goes flush to rim of bearing.
Thanks again.
Brian M

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
it'll be snug but shouldn't take brute force - make sure the inside of the jacket is clean and smooth and the mast isn't bent off-center ....there should be a slight flange on the top that sits on the end of the jacket and gives the ground for the horn .... on the side of the column about where it hits the dash support clamp there'a a squarish hole in the inner side, that's where the wire comes out to connect to the under dash harness

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
Not sure if the later mast jacket bearings are different than the AD bearing, but they have rubber surrounding the bear cup. Must have something to do with the aftermarket manufacturing standards but I played hell trying to get the one I got from Chevy Duty in mine.
I went down on the lathe before I installed it and turned up a special driver so as not to damage the cup that holds the bearing. I tried KY-Jelly, Vasaline, Grease, oil, dishwashing soap, and in the end I still had some rubber squeezing out the top and never could get it to seat all the way down to the flange. There was simply to much rubber to get it in the mast jacket. I'd be glad to listen to anyone who believes he has the secret.
In years past when they were avalable, I'd installed the genuine GM mast jacket bearings and never had a problem. When I was a Chevy parts man back in the early 60's I sold a bunch of them and never heard a complaint about how they fit. Just one more thing to add to the list of poorly made after market junk the vendors are sell us.
Denny Graham
Samdwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 122
Finally got around to installing mast bearing. Denny you were right it took quite a bit of coersion with a hammer and socket. There was a considerable amount of the rubber that squeezed to the top. Once it was resting on the flange I used utility knife to remove excess rubber.
I realize this part of the question turns electric but since Im here i figured Id ask. The wire coming off the bearing has a black wire with a round connector end and the the horn wire from harness is tan with typical flat connector. Do these two wires connect? If not where do they go?
Thanks again,
Brian M

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
Yes, they are supposed to connect. I had the same problem with mine. I'm not sure who is actually making it with the correct connector, the bearing peole or the wire harness people, I jsut simply changed the end out so they match. Well, actually, I used a Posi-Loc connector so it will be easy to take apart if needed.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
agree, that tan wire is the correct destination for the bearing wire, which originally was tan, although all the repro's have black, and the connector should be a spade, like others on a GM original harness - I got one sometime back with the correct spade connector on it, but don't recall which supplier

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics

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