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| | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 | Hey guy's and gal's Betty Boop is almost ready for the road but I have a leak. She is dripping about a tablespoon of oil from the rear crankshaft seal each tim I turn her off.
As this is not my first rodeo and I have replaced the rear seals (rope type) on engines before I still need assistance.
My 1941 Chevrolet Shop Manuel indicates that the "new and inproved wick seal" is only serviceable with the crankshaft out of the block. UHHHHHH! Is this information correct or can I use the chinese handcuff seal installer and only remove the rear bearing cap?
I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 | Any body got a later publication that says the seal can be installed while the crankshaft is still in the car?
I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | KD tools has a kit for the crank seal try ebay. Also before you go to all that trouble you may try a PCV valve. Mine has all but eliminated oil leaks.
You should be able to just remove the rear main cap to swap out the rope seal. Also there has been quite a lot of tips written up on 'how-to' for this job check tech tips.
Last edited by JiMerit; 08/29/2009 5:12 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 687 | Thanks jim, thats the way i remember it. My concern was that the 41 manuel said remove the crankshaft. I really didn't want to remove the engine again. My guess is that when the manuel was written the prcedure was to remove the crankshaft and the manuel was never updated.
I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Most of us have replaced the both halves of the "rope" with the motor in the car. This was not an approved GM dealer procedure so the official manual does not promote the replacement of the upper half while the crankshaft is in place. In my case, I had success after I also replaced the main bearings and shimmed them as close to minimum clearance as possible. My previous two seals lasted about 100 miles. If you can adjust your mains at the same time, you will boost your chances of having good results. | | |
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