The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 91 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,127
Posts1,056,680
Members48,452
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#56929 02/23/2006 7:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 197
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 197
I'm just finishing up my GMC 228 rebuild and separated the intake and exhaust manifolds the other night. I considered not doing this because the bolts were stuck tight and I was stripping them out trying to get them off. Now I'm glad I did it. When I got the two manifolds apart I found that the heat valve was cracked and looks like it's been welded at one time. What's involved with getting this repaired? The shaft doesn't rotate. Are parts available or is this a junkyard kind of thing? Thanks, Neil


Neil
1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Only new part I've been able to track down is the spring. They are usually a bear to get free. Usually heat and penetrating oil and time. Don't try turning the counterweight with pliers, there's a rivet through it that will shear off. Tapping the end of the shaft sometimes works. You can end up drilling out the rivets that hold the valve to the shaft to clean things up. Did I mention that it's not easy?


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
....rivets that hold the valve to the shaft..?

The only ones I've seen have the valve welded to the shaft.

If you grind the weld smooth with a die grinder then you can tap the shaft out and clean it. Start by tapping back and forth to loosen it up. Make sure you note the position of the valve so you can weld it back right. Digital photos work great.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 345
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 345
I've used penetrating oil along with heat- a propant torch. When the mani is hot, gradually turn the shaft and try to wiggle it loose. Mine loosened up eventually. BTW, after buying a new spring, I decided not to use it since it never seemed to open up completely. I'm in So Cal though, so very cold weather is not a problem here.

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 384
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 384
The way I got mine loose was to drive the weighted casting left and right on the shaft. Don't bother trying to hit it opened and closed, It didn't work on mine. Just oil getting it to move further onto the shaft then back it off again. Scott


55 1st Chev.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Cletis, every one that I've had apart has had rivets. Go figure.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0