| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,127 Posts1,056,681 Members48,452 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#56929 02/23/2006 7:21 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 | I'm just finishing up my GMC 228 rebuild and separated the intake and exhaust manifolds the other night. I considered not doing this because the bolts were stuck tight and I was stripping them out trying to get them off. Now I'm glad I did it. When I got the two manifolds apart I found that the heat valve was cracked and looks like it's been welded at one time. What's involved with getting this repaired? The shaft doesn't rotate. Are parts available or is this a junkyard kind of thing? Thanks, Neil
Neil 1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
| | |
#56930 02/23/2006 8:38 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Only new part I've been able to track down is the spring. They are usually a bear to get free. Usually heat and penetrating oil and time. Don't try turning the counterweight with pliers, there's a rivet through it that will shear off. Tapping the end of the shaft sometimes works. You can end up drilling out the rivets that hold the valve to the shaft to clean things up. Did I mention that it's not easy?
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
| | |
#56931 02/24/2006 4:07 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | ....rivets that hold the valve to the shaft..?
The only ones I've seen have the valve welded to the shaft.
If you grind the weld smooth with a die grinder then you can tap the shaft out and clean it. Start by tapping back and forth to loosen it up. Make sure you note the position of the valve so you can weld it back right. Digital photos work great. | | |
#56932 02/24/2006 7:36 PM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 | I've used penetrating oil along with heat- a propant torch. When the mani is hot, gradually turn the shaft and try to wiggle it loose. Mine loosened up eventually. BTW, after buying a new spring, I decided not to use it since it never seemed to open up completely. I'm in So Cal though, so very cold weather is not a problem here. | | |
#56933 02/27/2006 6:51 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 384 | The way I got mine loose was to drive the weighted casting left and right on the shaft. Don't bother trying to hit it opened and closed, It didn't work on mine. Just oil getting it to move further onto the shaft then back it off again. Scott
55 1st Chev.
| | |
#56934 02/28/2006 3:11 AM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Cletis, every one that I've had apart has had rivets. Go figure.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
| | |
| |
| |