The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs more about brakes

Thanks Stan and others for the ideas re hardware kits.

Here's the thing....when I had the burb converted to power assisted drum brakes I ended up with a very low pedal. The system works but the throw on the rod seems short so you are almost on the floor when you brake hard.

The guy who did the conversion and installed the hydraulic master cylinder for the clutch is gone so I can't ask him if there is an adjustment to give me more pedal.

Any ideas?

If he used the stock pedal assembly, the stock clevis(rear in pic) between the pedal & booster should be adjustable.
My pedal sat too high so I had a friend make THIS adjuster(front in pic) to work w/a clevis.Joe

Well done Joe.....next project is to check this out.

Thanks EB

If you got the same kit I did, the instructions SUCKED. We're talking Ross Perot's "giant sucking sound" sucked.

They forgot one major point: when converting to power brakes, you need to drill a new hole on the brake pedal's arm, approximately 3/4-to-1 inch lower (toward the pedal pad) than the existing hole for the rod. It effectively changes the pedal stroke/ratio.

That should take care of the excess travel.

There should also be an adjustment sleeve for the threaded rod.

Your sig says you have a '63 Suburban, but if you're talking about a hydraulic clutch, if it's factory it's '62 and old (which is what mine is). If you're dealing with a factory-type unit, when you look under the dash, remember that the brake pedal's rod is NOT the one you can easily see from the passenger side. It's buried up/behind the whole pedal assembly. I thought I was adjusting my brake pedal rod once, and then realized I hadn't touched it and had only re-adjusted the clutch rod. The brake pedal rod had loosened all the way, and put the pedal on the floor to stop.

-Brad

Thanks Brad...been away and just saw your reply. OK I have a GMC factory 4x4 Suburban ( I think ) When I got it it was standard brakes and steering. I had a mechanic convert it to a kit I bought from Bill's Truck Shop ( early gm anc chev parts ) It had a master cylindar set up that ran the breaks and the clutch ( with slave ) So the new 2 chamber MC for brakes whould not drive the clutch, so I added a hydralic MC for the clutch, modifided the clutch assembly and the slave worked fine and did not have to been changed.
Anyway I will check out the brake assembly and see if the new hole you mention was done. This may be the answer to the "low pedal"

Thanks for the help Brad.

EB.