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#566466 08/19/2009 2:17 AM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 549
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 549
Hands like Houston54 will already know this, but I just found out the hard way and thought I’d share.

My gas gauge was working well, but a month or so ago it started reading OK at full, between 7/8 and 1/4 of a tank it would go to over full (pegged), and then back to OK at <1/4. I did all the usual searches, check ground (my truck has kick [censored] grounds now), continuity, etc., including pulling out the sending unit and hooking up an old one I had to see if it was that.

Both sending units read OK in my hand when I moved the float up and down, so I chased wiring. I jacked with that stuff for days until I finally broke down and bought a new gauge out of frustration. Solved the problem.

I believe that I moved the float of the sending units too fast when I tested it, making me skip a bad spot in the winding of the gauge. I’ve seen it happen with window motors, but I’m not sure if it happens to a gauge. If that theory is out in space, one of the guru’s will probably set me straight.

Anyway, the directions in most manuals work well for testing, but I recommend that during the sending unit test, you test it in “increments”.

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Avette,

I agree. If my truck taught me anything it is that everything should have a kick [censored] dedicated grounds. Just went through a similar trial with my fuel gauge.

And yes careful and slow are the words of the day so you get good results and don't break your new sender like I did.

Rich


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