The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun advice,wheel choice '48 8L?

This is my first 3800, it has 4, 8/17, split rims w/junk tires.I don't think I want to run these 'cause of cost to put new tires on them and not having a matched spare. I found some 8L,aftermarket,16.5,wagonspoke,one-piece steel rims that appear to have the proper offset to clear the tie rod ends and still fit over those huck drums. These were aquired, gratis, from grateful clients and friends over the last couple of years, so i'm not out much if they're unsuitable. I would like to run full moons, but I can't find them in 16.5. I have a new set of full moons in press-on 16", but 16" rims, it looks like, won't fit my truck.
A few questions, Since I don't have a 16" rim to check the fit, would someone know if they do? Does anyone know if the 17" split-rims are worth anything for trade purposes? Are 16.5 full moons even available?
Also,a kind of related topic,I think I read somewhere in the archives that it's OK to remove the 2 smallest leaf springs on each corner from a 1 ton without jeopardizing saftey, I never want to load this truck with anything near a ton, just want a little softer and lower ride.
Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

My first thought is that 16.5 tires are hard to find. I'd confirm tire availability before investing any trouble into these wheels.

That is true, 16.5s are getting very hard to get. Most tire shop don't even stock them anymore. We don't at the shop I work at. If the truck isn't a dual wheel model, 16" rims should fit just fine. Used to run around with a guy that had a '49 1 ton, that's what he put on it. Used 7.00-16 bias ply tires on it. If you're not 100% worried about an authentic look, I would suggest either a 235/85/16 or a 245/75/16, which are very easy to get.

I run 16" rims on my 1 Ton. My tires are from a special run by Yokohama. They are much like a LT 7.50 tire but they are tubeless radials. The 235/85/16s will give you the same setup but with a wider tread.

There are 16" rims from the 70s that will work. They are usually of a 6" width and a backset of no more than 4". the OEM style trailer rims fit perfectly. They are a little bit heavier than the normal wheels but they work just fine.

Thank you for the info. We had a couple of days of T-storm and much needed rain that curtailed progress on the truck. I hope to hit the local junkyards for some 16" rims today. I'm also turning a new shaft for the master cyl./brake pedal linkage so I can put all that back together and start plumbing the lines! Funny, what excites me these days! (read: Old Fart)
I just looked at the old split-rim tires and they read 7" by 17", just to correct myself, in case someone was interested. The 16.5s were free, (I guess now, I know why, Ha Ha. Learn somthin' every day!)
Lot's more questions and conversations coming in the future, Thank you all again,
For now, back to work.
'muck'

Hey, I was just reading in parts for sale, someone is selling tailgate chains & covers. I had a relationship with a local company as a vendor for O.E.M. parts to be manufactured by me for their tailgate vehicles.I had to purchase hooks from a vendor they already used and sew straps instead of chains, to sell to them as a complete part. The straps had to be 1" poly w/4000lbs. tensile capacity which the engineers and I tested, after sewing,(hook & strap) to 2000 lbs before any discernable varience from print. The company moved from here, to somewhere in the Carolinas, some years ago. We sold maybe 1 or 2 orders to them after the move until I didn't hear from them any more. I was left with a couple hun. hooks and quite a bit of webbing so I made a set for my trucks which have held up very well. Would anyone like to get rid of those chains and go to straps? I stiched a stainless eye-bolt to one end to bolt to the truck, and slipped an innertube as a cover over the strap, nice clean look, without looking unlike O.E.M. to much. I could do the same for anyone with a stepside tailgate. I'm not sure what the 5/16 eyebolts cost but the strap/ hooks/ sewing is cheap!

You stated that as long as it isn't a dual setup, they would work. What would work if it is a dual wheel setup?

The dual wheel trucks used larger brakes on the rear. 16" rims won't clear the rear drums. IIRC, they used 18' rims on the dual wheel trucks, most guys sre using 19.5s as replacements because of easy availability for proper rated replacemnt tires.

I went with new Pacer wheels. Here are the specs.
Go to http://www.pacerwheels.com
Select RWD and you will see the wheel that is on my truck. Click on it and it will give the detail below and more.
Pacer part number is 161M-6781
Wheel size is 16X7
Bolt circle is 8X6.5
Backspacing is 3.62 inches
The most important thing is the backspacing. Most newer wheels are designed to fit over discs and have a deep dish. These old trucks require a shallow back spacing to avoid hitting the idler arm in front. The back wheels could be different I suppose. You would just have to try. If you don't want new wheels just look for some with a shallow back space measurement.
Bill

The other day I went to a local junkyard just to see how many 8L rims they had and how many $ they would expect. I found a fair amount of 8Ls, all pretty recent vintage. So, I went home and made a jig out of corrugated cardboard, sort of a go-nogo guage, that tells me,rim size(15,16,16.5,etc.), offset(3-5.5"by.125"), center hole dia.(min.-max.), bolt pattern(yes-no),and trueness(un-bent). My tie rod end is 4.625" from the outside drum plane. A 4.5 " back offset will clear by only an eighth, too close for me, so a 4" or slightly less back offset on a 7" is fine. The trailer rims, mentioned above,in steel, can be had at the local Farm & Barn with the offset I desire, special-order (time & $$$). I'm still going to exhaust all options at the scrapyards before going that route.
More later, thanx for the input, I'll stay in touch,
Muck