The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop cracked block on my new truck!

After dragging home my new project I found a crack on the left side of the motor right above the oil rail. I added some water to it and it seeps slowly. My question is ,does some one make a sealer that will fix this ? I know I can use the Dry Block sealer on the "inside" of the motor by filling the water jacket up to the crack.Just was thinking with all the chemicals out there today there should be a easy fix. Thanks Tom

I would find a new block.

K&W Block Seal.
Run it until you find another block.

It will never be right and that area is one of the most common for these engines to show a crack. What year and size motor is it? You may want to make some decisions about original vs. upgrade at this time.

Okay I am a female and this is my first time chatting, and my first time with an old truck so terminology may not all be right. But I have an outside crack on the water pan, and was told that braising it with brass should work. Is that a possible option, or am I better off looking for something new, as I really wanted to keep original???

Brad, It is a 53 216. I just subframed a 55 GMC longbed last winter, I was kinda hoping to keep this one original. It is a 53 3600. After pricing original brakes and hardware, rebuilding the frt end ect it seems like I might light the torch on this one too.

If you want to keep the original look a 235 upgrade would make sense and it is a lot better engine than the 216 splashers(purists save your responses you know I am right). They are also available usually in running condition for $200 around here. It always comes down to what you want to do with the truck, you are right sometimes the original route can be expensive and face it no matter what it is 60 year old technology in regards to braking, steering and performance.

I ran the block seal for a few year in my GMG but I'd be looking for a good block.

jwhite 28:

Stovebolt is not about men or woman but about Stovebolts, for all intents and purposes your just one of the boys, a stovebolter, somebody who likes Chevy trucks. Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride, There are alot of really good people on the forum with a lot of experience. Like you, I'm just a beginner, but with 18 years experience. By water pan you probably mean "water jacket", best advise I could hope to give you, replace the engine, otherwise it will come back to haunt you somewhere down the line and usually at the worst possible moment.

A 235 can be installed and made to look just like a 216, but the 216 is a good engine, dippers and all. Most people are kinda afraid of them because of a "non pressurized oil lubrication system" The engine ran, non pressurized, for many a years and they worked just fine. The military in WW2 tried to kill these 216, but they generally out lasted them. Get another engine, overhaul it as necessary (preferably a top and bottom end overhaul) and you will have a good reliable engine to work with. Don't be afraid to get on the forum and ask your question, stupid ones or not, and someone will help. I know, I ask a host of stupid questions and there is someone out there who wwas willing to help me.

Have a good time restoring your truck, keep it fun, and forget the nice finger nails you ain't gonna keep them if you plan to do your own work. Keep a picture in your mind of the finished truck and then keep pushing towards that goal. There are set backs that will stop you if you let them, don't let them. There will be problems to work through that seem impossible but with the Lord all thins are possible, I know this to be a fact. Don't be a quitter be a doer and get it done, At every milestone reflect back over what has been done and revel in the moment. When finished, rejoice in your accomplishment, fire it up, praise God, and enjoy the ride.


God bless,


Dave

Nicely said Dave.

I'll second that, can we take a vote now?

cracks in sheet metal are fixable. Cracks in cast iron, while repairable, generally costs a great deal to do correctly. We are talking a 216 here and not the engine from a 1929 Chord. So find another 216 or go with a 235. I did have a cracked mounting boss on an oddball engine welded once. The block was stripped, the crack ground out, heated in an oven to about 500F, then a really talented welder came in and did his magic for about 3 hours. Total cost of repair was about $600.

jwhite28, welcome fellow 'bolter. We dont mind the experienced or inexperienced here. We do like pictures.

ok just back from the junk yard, found a early 50s GMC 1 ton or larger truck with a good motor, maybe a 302? Will this fit my 53 3/4 ton ?

Tom,get the radiator too,it sets further forward than the Chevy.The GMC is longer than the Chevy.

There's one thing to remember we were all in your shoes at one time or another so don't be afraid to ask questions no matter how dum or stupid they may seem as all questions have merit. Heck I am 67 years old and I still ask questions about some things every now and then. When you look back over all the things you did to your bolt you will have a feeling of pride about your accomplishments.
Good Luck
62Blue
Don

Thanks guys you are great!! Tom

Use a good sealer. I think GM has one that is a round disc. After running it then give it a good flush. Napa has an expoxy weld that you could put on the outside as well. Maybe grind a small V in the crack. You might drive it for years and never have another problem. My crack had been welded before I got the truck and still leaked a little so I used a good sealer and have had no problems since. Worth a try since junk yard motors might leak as well.