The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop diesel or not to diesel?????

In my short time as a beloved member of this forum group, I have come to the conclusion that everyone is sometimes willing to offer their perspective (opinion)on each subject. But I am requesting that you not be your normal reserved self. I want every ounce of input now before I start this crazy idea.

I have two 1960 chevy 4X4 trucks being delivered in the next two weeks.

One I am going to restore showroom stock.

The other I am thinking about restoring the body stone stock. The drivetrain however will be modified as follows.

Frame will be strengthend. Engine will be swapped for a cummins diesel. Allison six speed automatic Tranny/transfer case will be from a 2006 chevy that I saw in the wrecking yard. (Great place to get hair brained ideas)

Concerns,

Length of the engine,tranny,transfercase vs drive line issues.
Frame strength vs torque
Front spring rates and getting it all to set level.
Axel strength vs torque.

I was at a tow yard looking at what is going to be auctioned this Saturday and saw the wrecked dodge and chevy, both 2006 models sitting side by side. ZZZZZAAAAAPPPP! the idea entered my pea brain.

OK have at folks have at it.

Thanks in advance for the input.

Mike

i think it is a good idea. if i could have found a deal on a diesel motor/tranny, i woud have gotten one to put in my '59.

if you are worried about the frame, just box it. the diesel motors are heavy, but i doubt that they are too heavy. you will need stiffer springs in the front. how much stiffer i am not sure. you may look and see if 3/4 ton or 1 ton soprings from the same year truck will fit, assuming the axle setup is the same.

drivetrain length issues...well, you will just have to measure it and see if it will work, but i don't forsee and problems.

axle strength, i would throw it together and see if it holds. or you could go ahead and get some heavy duty axles built to handle the torque

Thanks 1-ton. I think that I will do this if I can get the parts from wrecks at a reasonable price.

6 cylinder cummins requires about 39 inches to put it in. It will be very tight.

I have been wanting to do something similar, but can't make the 6BT fit in the 39 or 53 without banging up the firewall. I think I'll be going with a 4BT and turning up the pump and boost.

How are you going to improve the sound insulation enough so that you don't have to wear hearing protection everytime you go out for a drive? These trucks, beautiful as they are, are like riding in the inside of a snare drum.

Sound deadening is a concern.

Here is my plan.

Dampen the vibration with the roof patch stuff we have discussed before and everyone like to put in there doors (I think this is the same stuff dynomat is made of). I think Alan has a good explanation on his site. This is a good idea in all of our trucks.

I have a buddy that has some stuff that looks exactly the same, but is made to wrap industrial pipes in drop ceilings and has a white inside material instead of black, he lined his whole interior with it in a 40 something plymouth and it was like riding in a new car very quiet.

Then I plan to use insulation made to line the engine compartments of diesel boats. It has foil, then foam, then some kind of heavy composite material, then foam and is adhesive backed. I have one of those fiberglass and sound deadener inner firewall covers and plan to use the boat insulation as an outer firewall cover and floor plan insulator.

If I just had a bellhousing and flyweel setup for a yanmar, I could keep it nice and quiet and rev the snot out of it.

brake upgrades?

In general I think brake upgrades are mandatory on all 1/2 ton trucks. They are more difficult on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, but the drums are giant on my trucks and I keep them adjusted.

Check out grigg's site for his brake and axle upgrades.

I am talking about big trucks at relatively low speeds. My 1.5 ton can pull a 8500 lbs boat and trailer (triple axle with disc brakes) and haul it to a stop from 45 mph pretty good with the giant drums. Unloaded my 1.5 ton can stop alot faster than comfortable with the giant drums, I have never been able to lock em up when adjusted correctly. I wouldn't want to do repeated hard stops. If I go diesel, I am going to retrofit a hydroboost system to the drums.

I know a fabricator that says he can take a set of late model straight axle spindles (bread truck or 3500 HD) and bush the kingpins to fit. This may be my path later.

I don't tow it any faster than 55 with my 400 sbc powered 3/4 ton suburban. It will lock up on occasion. I really need to hydroboost it.

I guess another subject we've all avoided on this one it taller gears or in the case of the 4x4 taller tires may solve the problem.

Yes, I tow with my 235 powered 3/4 ton GMC. I feel safe towing to about 60 mph, but really have to plan ahead and use downshifting to stop. I really feel my engine is fine for only hauling the truck's own weight, but is barely adequate for towing duties. I wish I had my 400 sbc in it, but then, I too would be looking to improve my braking system.

for sound deadeningi am using thuis stuff called peel n' seal. i got it at Lowe's in the roofing section. it costs about $1 / sq. ft., way cheaper than dynomat, and it is basically trhe same stuff. it is a foil backed asphalt based insulator. two layers of the stuff on the firewall floors, roof, and lower rear wall with maybe some jute over it and cover it all with some carpet. should work just fine