The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1 Ton 1950 5.14 gear

Can someone tell me if I can change out the 5.14 gear in the stock rear end, the split rims, put in a 350/350 combo and not have to change any brakes(with the exception of power assist) or suspension? The original 216 has a cracked block. It's a 1950 1 ton panel Thanks for any and all replies.

Welcome to the Stovebolt Dayton.

Can I restate your question to be sure I understand? You want to replace the original motor with a 350/350t. You want to change the gears in the rear, presumably to something more highway friendly. You do not want to change the brakes or suspension.

Did I get that right? If so, yes you can make these changes with out changing the suspension or brakes. You will have an issue with the steering, but it can be addressed without loosing the stock steering wheel. The existing steering box will interfere with the driver's side exhaust manifold.

You don't state your purpose. It sounds like you are trying to update while retaining a stock look. It might be easier to swap to a newer six, like a 292, which would fit in the engine compartment with out changing the steering.

Unless you're building a hot rod the 292 will drive as nice as the 350.

If you are building a hot rod I think you want to reconsider your commitment to keeping the stock brakes.

Hy daytondigger, If your going to do all that work I would upgrade to the bendix brakes which are much better, I think they were available starting in 52 but I could be wrong on that. The rear ends should interchange between 3/4 - 1 tons up to at least 59 maybe even newer than that, a few different ratios available in those years.

Welcome daytondigger
point of info;
The 1Ton trucks didnt get bendix brakes until 1953,My 52 has huck brakes.
You can change out the 3rd member and keep your old banjo I believe all the way up to 1972.
As stated above there will Definitely be issues with the left exhaust manifold and the stock steering column

Daytondigger,
I've got a '51 one-ton with 5.14 gears and go down the road as fast as I want to go with the old brakes and steering. Besides rear end gearing, tire size controls the rpm at a given speed. I got some 17 in tires at Carlisle on the old split rims that have a 33 inch diameter and (at present) a '48 235 splash oiler that gives me about 50 mph. Fast enough for an old guy in an old truck.
PA Farmer

Thanks for all the input, I plan on using the truck on weekend 3 to 6 hour trips to go camping. I can litteraly live in this big boy. I would like to keep it looking stock, but physical impairments make it tough for me to drive a stick. I am on a low buck tour and the 350 and turbo tranny are cheap and plentiful. I will keep it looking original on the outside including repainting the original Forester Green. I don't want to use the split rims, can I use late model chevy 8 lug rims???? What about the 250 and 292 L6 engines of the 80's??Thanks, Steve

Steve
Yes Definately on the six cyl engines
As said before a V8 brings on alot of probs in these trucks cause they never were built factory with them
ANY L22 engine would be a easier install than a v8
And yes on the rims, ya just gotta make sure they clear on the tierod end up front,you will be sacrificing the hubcaps tho unless you get replacement clips and put them on your wheels

Thanks, I just bought a 292 out of a '69 C-10 and a 350Turbo out of a '79 Malibu. I'll use Hursts big auto stick and I'll not alter too much. I want to retain that original character.

4.10 gears are available from '67-'72 3/4-ton trucks. The archives have plenty of information.

Good moves!

Think about upgrading those brakes. You get that thing rolling down the freeway at 70 you'll want to be able to stop it quickly.

Go to the links section - Jim Carter (oldchevytrucks.com?) - he has the 4.10 gears. You can also find 68-72 suburban with automatic and pull out the gearset from the differential and plug it into your axle and you gear swap is did. Very easy. Did it myself.

To use the gears that Carter's (supposedly) sells, you still need to find a '64-'72 carrier. If you're going to do that, you might as well just get the '67-'72 4.10 pumpkin and save a few hundred bucks.

THOSE DIFFERENTIALS AREN'T ALWAYS JUST BEHIND AUTOMATICS!

I found a rear axle assembly at a nearby large-format salvage yard that came out of a '67 chevy C20 pickup. It's been there in storage for a while and they had very little info on it. They told me it's a 10-bolt removable carrier and very large looking. I want to use the carrier in my 50 1-ton. What do I need to do to make sure it will fit. They're not open on the weekends and I can't get there during the week. They'l sell it complete for $100.00 and deliver it to the Chevy dealer where I work. Help!!! I've read a few posts on this, but I've not seen anything too conclusive. Thanks, Steve

First, make sure it's the Eaton axle and not a later-style GM corporate axle. The dome-shaped rear cover and drop-out differential should take care of that. To check the ratio they can either pull the rear cover and check the numbers stamped on the edge of the ring gear or simply count driveshaft v. axle rotation. I think (but I'm not sure) that my ring gear is stamped "41 10."

If it is a 4.10 and you get the whole axle, I'd love to know if the later finned brake drums are the same diameter and depth as the smooth AD drums. I stupidly didn't measure them when I pulled my differential and haven't had my hands on an H052 axle since.

You need a 10 bolt eaton from a 64-72. There are still some available with 4.10 gears, they're getting harder to locate. The swap is easy.

I would upgrade the brakes. You should be able to get some Bendix from a little newer truck and swap out the backing plate and all. Far more efficient than the Hucks. Also, look into different material for the shoes. If you search this forum, you should be able to locate an outfit in Texas that does kevlar linings. Not cheap, but it is supposed to make a huge difference in stopping.

Another option to condider is to put in a 700R4 instead of the TH350. Properly built it will hold up under the pressure and give you overdrive.

Biggest problem that I know of with a v8 in these trucks is having to move the steering gear to clear the exhaust.

GMC Panel;
My carrier was stamped 41-10 on the ring gear AND on the end of the pinion,which was the one I was first able to see.
Fred T;How about a 4L80E? I know it's an expensive piece usually,but would it hook to a 292? BTW-if you need something like a later model parts truck,watch the storage lot auctions.A bro of mine just picked up a '94 suburban with a trashed front ring and pinion,all the bells and whistles,and a bigblock,for 350.00.He pulled the full time hubs apart and drove it home.
Speed