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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 55
F
New Guy
New Guy
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 55
After wire brushing my 1ton frame, most of the frame is black with the original paint showing up. Now I know that POR15 is designed to go over rust but I'm wondering if I have enough rust. I will use the product to clean all the oil etc off the frame and the acid prep. before painting the frame. Should I use sand paper and rough up the surface. I've heard of some of you having trouble with the POR15 not adhering on slick or too clean of a surface. I would appreciate responses. Thanks to all in advance------ Funton yahoo

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 61
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
A Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 61
POR15 can be used on rust. But the best base for POR15 is the bare metal. If any paint or grease or oil is left on the metal, POR15 will not permanently joining with the metal.

I have painted my frame with black frame-paint because this paint is more insensitive and longer brushable. Painting the whole frame takes hours and POR15 needs a second layer within 4-12 hours. After that time the second layer will not connect adequate to the first layer.

I think there is no need to use POR15 on the frame and it makes more work than necessary.


'59 Apache
'67 Mustang
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 91
5
New Guy
New Guy
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 91
Apache, I really like your last statment.... Blast it, epoxy primer, paint of your choice. don't get much better than that. We tryed the whole POR15 thing on my sons trucks frame. Too much work and don't look as good (1 1/2 years later).JMO

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 210
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 210
I am just about to tackle the POR15 for my frame. It is very stressful to say the least and it seems like I'll be cleaning my darn frame for the rest of my life to get it clean enough. I'f gone thru many wire brushes and wire wheels, a lot of marine clean and it still is not spic and span clean. I am going nuts with this. I think my next step is to pull it out into my driveway and pressure wash the crap (literally, most likely Cow crap) out of it. Then go at it with the metal ready. I think I am going to get my brother and hopefully someone else to help me with painting the frame...we can all start the first coat and before we finish the first coat someone can start with the second coat.

I also bought chassis black top coat but might not use it afterall. I have set up a timeline and if we start at 7 am, allow the 3-5 hours of drying time between coats we won;t be done until about 3am the following day.

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 91
5
New Guy
New Guy
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 91
You need to top coat it. It will chalk with in a year or so. It will look real good when your done, but don't be fooled.

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 31
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 31

Don't worry about getting rid of all the rust...the poor 15 loves to bind with it and thats how you will get best results. Obviously you don't want big chunks but surface rust is ok...contact the folks at west coast coatings for specific instructions and follow them...they know what their talking about. I would use the chassis black top coat too... you can use it following por 15 or spray with their self etching primer up to one year later and then top coat. You can google west coast coatings and it will come right up. Good luck!

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 210
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 210
Check out my flickr site. I did my frame with POR15 on the weekend. It had it pretty darn clean with wire brushes and steel wool and marine clean first. Then I used the metal ready which turned the whole thing white. Once I rinsed off the metal ready, the surface all rusted on it. I put on 2 coats of POR15 and it turned out fantastic. I have purchased more POR15 to do other parts now. I am very satisfied with the results.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
I sandblasted my frame and used Eastwoods Epoxy Primer and it works fabulously. Very tough stuff. I sanded and topcoated it with Chassis Black. It looks great, but I don't think the Chassis Black is as tough as POR15, but it is easy to sand a chip or scratch and spray on a little more.

I have used POR15 and their Hardnose Paint with luck. I am never able to apply a second coat of POR15 within the 3-4 hour window they require (family, kids, work, the beach, etc), so I always have a quart of their Etch Primer around so I don't have to worry about the re-application window.

The Hardnose paint is exactly what they say, hard! But application, whether by brush or spraying, doesn't provide a perfect glossy finish. So use it in places that get covered up. I did the inside of my fenders, under the hood, firewall and inner fender skirts. I brushed the fenders, and under cab, but sprayed the firewall and under hood so it looked nice. It has a little orange peel texture, but since it is bright yellow it looks pretty darn good.



Moderated by  klhansen 

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