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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,277 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | We will be painting my friends '54 3100 soon and he wants to paint it a light metallic blue. The truck is completely disassembled and due to a small painting area, it will not be possible to paint it all at one time. My concern is that because of painting on different days with different weather conditions such as temp and humidity, that the metallic paint may come out looking different. I am also concerned that by spraying on different days, even the way the paint is applied could cause a different look.
I have suggested that going with a non-metallic paint would be a better option. Am I correct with my concerns on this or am I worrying for nothing? I know he is really wanting the metallic paint job.
Last edited by bigbassmann; 07/13/2009 3:13 AM.
| | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 | Yes you are correct. Metallic colors can be affected in multiple ways, temp and humidity are a few of them. Some colors are more forgiving then others, if he wants the metallic I would tell him of the potential pitfalls. | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I believe I have talked him into going with a light blue non-metallic color but was wanting to make sure I was correct before he bought the paint. | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | sevt_chevelle knows what he's talking about.
Back in the 60s Chevrolet had two light metallic color options, one was gray and the other Mist Blue. The front fenders and hood were painted separately from the rest of the car and the differences in color could range from slight to shocking. I was extremely lucky when I bought my Mist Blue 65 SS because the colors were very close.
Painting light metallics requires that everything be done in one operation. | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 Ex Hall Monitor | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 | During my days in body & fender trade school in the '60s I was recommended by the teaching staff to attend GM training. During that training I discovered that not only is metallic affected by the variables mentioned above but the amount of thinner used can also change the color slightly. Unless you have the controls & methods used by the factory to paint parts separately and have them match the best way to shoot metallic is to shoot all of the parts at the same time with one mix of paint.
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| | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 | After reading the above variables which I agree with there is also another which can affect the outcome. When I worked with a Rod shop some years back they would paint a car somewhat disassembled like doors, hood and trunk off to be able to spray the jam areas. To achieve the same look they would paint the hood and trunk laying flat but do the doors standing vertical as it would be if on the car. Laying out metallic paint is so dependent on mix and the painters technique, along with temp. and the other stuff. Ya, a solid color would be much easier Dan
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| | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | I painted my truck in pieces, at different times, and in different environments (winter, summer) It matches great, even after needing an additional 2 quarts mixed. I used a solid, dark color- cape maroon. Metallic is extremely hard to match. | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | The painting will begin Sunday. I hope I remember to take before and after pics. If so, I will post some on this forum soon. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Good luck....and try not to get too much paint on your camera!  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Trucknut, looked at your pictures, very nicely done, what did you use to strip the cab? It looks like it was dipped or maybe soda blasted? Looks like you sure had a nice cab to start with, I don't see a spot of rust on it anywhere after it was stripped. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Trucknut, Looks like you sure had a nice cab to start with, I don't see a spot of rust on it anywhere after it was stripped. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL I agree....it looks brand new! (Lucky Devil!)  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | Thanks guys. I had it blasted with glass bead. I'm against soda blasting for a metal body 100% It was in good shape, had to patch up the cab corners and the kick panels, other than that, just had a lot of dents and dings to beat out and fill. | | |
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