The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop HELP, HELP ,HELP it won't start

I've been to three World's Fairs and a Dwarf Chuckin contest and I aint never experienced the likes of this before.

Took vacation this week to get my 1966 C60 with a 292 running. 5 days into the vacation it's still not running.

I can't get a spark out of it. I can get 12 volts to the + terminal of the coil with the key on and 9.5 , give or take, with the engine cranking. Still nothing comes out of the coil wire when I hold it close to the block.

I have tried 2 different ignition switches, 2 different coils(both with and without an external resistor), 2 different sets of points and condensor and even replaced the wire from the dizzy to the coil. All that and still no spark.

Everything is new in the ignition system. My problem is similar to the post titled Coil Resister Wire by Rob494 in the Electrical Bay except mine won't start at all.

The only telltale hint I have is that the starter sometimes has trouble turning over. I get one crank after 3 to 4 click, clicks. Since the ignition wire goes to the starter solenoid and then power comes to the coil from the starter solenoid it may have something to do with it. The starter is new also.

I've run the tests in the ignition circuit section of the 1963 Service Manual except at step 2 I get no spark.

I'm looking desperately for hints, suggestions, fixes, similar experiences or just plain insults.
Guys and Gals, I need help.

Waiting for your responses. The vacation clock is ticking.

Thanks to all.

BigMac
Thanks Dan

BigMac, check your ground connections; especially the one from the engine to the battery. Also, check the cable and ends for corrosion or physical damage.
With the slow cranking you are talking about, I suspect the grounding........

GMC,
It's not a slow crank. I turn the ignition switch to start and the starter will click. I repeat this 2 or 3 more times. I'll turn the key again and the engine will crank good and fast. Just no spark to the plugs.

Everything looks fine but there aint no juice in the distributor.

The battery cables are new and ground seems good. The radio, lights and horn work.

I will recheck the grounds per your recommendation. At this point I will try and do anything.

Thanks for your response.

BigMac
Thanks Dan

Well it seems to me from what you are saying that you aren't getting anything out of the coil. I would venture to say it has to be where the problem is. Not past that point because nothing is getting past. The starter just clicking sounds like a faulty ground or a bad solenoid.

I agree with GMC about the grounds. A click like that is usually a bad ground or connection. Do you have an engien to frame ground? The Negative side should be grounded to the block and body(frame).
Are you sure your points are opening enough? Try this: Remove the distributor cap and rotate the engine until the points are closed completely (important!) Take a 12 volt test light (make sure the bulb works!) and connect it from coil (-) to ground, and turn the key on. The test lite should lite. Now, reach down with a screwdriver or some tool and open the points. The light should go out.
If that works, have someone crank the engine while you keep the test lite on the coil. The light should dim, but also flicker. If it flickers, the points are working and teh coil is bad. No flicker means the points are not breaking the circuit. Bad/misadjusted points, bad condensor, bad distributor bushings.

I just reread your post. Do you have 1 or 2 wires on the positive terminal of the coil? You should have 2/ 1 from the key to the resistor to the coil, and one from the starter "r" terminal to the coil

Good luck. Let us know

Can't you run a positive wire from batt or starter pos cable to coil direct w/out key route and should give power to it? It's like "hot-wiring" was done. Won't shut off w/out pulling off wire if it runs. That would eliminate coil/dist problems if it does run. Could be keyswitch or wires to it then, maybe. OR, some selonoids have two connectors with small wires, one is for solid 12 volt to coil when cranking. It shuts off to reduced voltage when not cranking. It it only runs when cranking if hooked up that way, then ig switch wire again. Try the jumper wire first. Batt plus to coil.

some one will correct me if I'm wrong, so I can't hurt things too bad. Shouldn't the hot wire go to the - post on the coil?

In the immortal words of Dr. Frankenstein

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. I did them all and as a result the truck started right up. I don't know which one fixed it but the end result is all that matters.

Here's what I did in case someone else has the same experience:

- Added a large ground cable from the engine to the frame.
- Added a body ground wire from the negative battery cable. Cleaned and refastened the end bolted to the engine block.
- Removed, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled the complete ignition circuit wire harness in the engine compartment. Sanded down all the terminal ends and added dielectric grease to all connections.
- Regapped the points and checked all connections in the distributor.
- Said a small prayer then swung a dead chicken over my head counterclockwise while standing on one foot and whistling the theme to The Dukes of Hazzard.
- Put the key in the ignition and fired it right up.

I personally think it was the chicken ritual that made it work.

Thanks again to everyone.

BigMac
Thanks Dan

it only works that way if the chicken was properly plucked!
.
Glad to hear you have it running

You do housecalls? I got a '54 Bel-Air that needs the dead chicken treatment.

Chip