The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ignition switch

OK guys the truck is getting closer to being able to drive.

When I bought it the PO said the ignition switch was missing & had been hot wired.

I imagined cut & boogered wiring underneath but to my surprise I found the harness was untouched & a paperclip was used to jump the ignition.

I know you can find new switches on eBay for about $50 & the new lock tumbler for another $50.

I however don't want to spend $100 for this.

I would be perfectly satisfied with a toggle for the accessories and ignition since the starter is on the floor.

Anyone ever do this? What would be involved?

Less than $20 for a non-original-style replacement.


You might want to put your truck brand/year/model information in your Profile. It will help people know what truck you are referring to.

http://www.a-and-lsystems.com/d_ignition1.pdf see page 48
solid as a rock product probably $15-18bucks
95400 cole hersee
http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm

Great - just ordered a new generic switch - Now - in order to wire it up correctly - looking at the original plug in my truck - what are the 4 slots?

What I mean to ask is - which slot is the "hot" which is the accessory which is the ground etc?

that way when the new switch arrives I can create a pig tail to plug into the original harness & get it right the first time.

still haven't said what year, there are variations and there aren't any mind readers here

Bill

Wiring diagram , '55, '58 is similar.
BTW, $50 isn't too bad for a correct original style switch, but the lock cylindr shouldn't run any more than about $12, as priced from American Classic.

sorry about the year - I always assume you guys all know me.

58 chevy apachie 3200 - stock 235 with the foot starter.

No fuse box at all & a heater, though the heater looks stock - the switch to turn in on does not in any way look stock, but that's another post.

I bought the truck several months ago & it has been in storage for 15 years. It is a Arkansas truck so there is very little rust - only the cab corners. For Illinois that is a big deal.
I'm in the process of getting it started - new carb on the way - all the fuel system is new.

I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder & fix the ignition & it should be roadable. I've had it move under its own power in the driveway - but the old carb is junk & there are no brakes.

So this weekend I will fix the brakes - expect the new carb end of next week & the switch is all that is needed to be on the road.

Cant wait!

Longbox 55 - where are you at in Danville? My Dad is selling his farmhouse in Danville - out Perrysville road. I grew up there - went to Westville H.S.

w/ a foot stomp starter all you need is a simple two position switch. so to check out your new switch use a VOM. connect it to a lug using the ohms scale. when the needle or gauge reads ZERO, that's a dead short, meaning that you have continuity between the two wire clips. now connect the other wire to another lug. turn the switch to the ''on'' position. move the two wires about and figure out which two are connected w/ the switch in 'on' position.
mark then on the switch as battery & on. better yet, draw the back of your switch on a piece of binder paper, once you have figured out since you have a 4 position switch, draw up which post is
BATT - IGN. / ACC. / START.
the battery lug should never to electrically connected to any other post/screw when the key is removed.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2076998_use-voltohm-meter-safely.html

This site has over 20,000 members. I suppose you know what kind of truck each one of them has.

My first guess would be chevy - but I guess there could be a couple of Toyota guys here trying to figure out how to make theirs better.

Your first guess would be chevy? Chevy what? 1953 with a 216? 1956 with a V8? It's hard for us to remember the details and nice for you to get replies specifically related to your truck/drivetrain.

and quite a few GMC guys, not necessarily the same as Chevy OR Toyota in any detail

why not put it in your profile, so folks can always have a way to figure it out

Bill

Bill,

You asked the most pertinent question - why not put it in your profile?

This is off-topic : I've seen people post a question and not receive any answers because they had nothing in their profiles and their question did not say what truck they were asking about. Then, they post impatient "no answers?" or "anyone out there?" when no one replies. The answer is that most people who have answers would rapidly answer (nobody seems to be bashful in this forum), if the question were more clear about make, year, model.

Tim

I didn't mean to start a fight! - I received my shinny new ignition switch today. Thanks for all the help.

By the way - I'll update the profile.

Since we're on this topic,

When my '49 chevy 216 is converted to 12V ,do I need a different igniton switch ?

Just-a-hacker

No

Thanks,
oh goody ,one less thing to buy !!!