The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Anyone else working with lead?

I reacently taught myself how to run lead... Which was not as hard to learn as I thought it would be, as long as I can get the area tinned.

But I can't fing a decent way of applying the tinning compound. I have tryed the acid brushes, they just burn up and make the metal dirty. The best thing that I have found is a damp shop cloth.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe its my tinning compound. What type or brand do you guys like?

The area where the AD rear fender bolts to the running boards is often damaged because of the stresses present there. This is a prime candidate for using lead instead of plastic to fill minor low spots. Here are a few pictures of a repair that I made to the right fender in that area. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/body_work
You may be heating the metal to much if your burning up an acid brush. You only need to get the area up to a round 350° to work the solder. I prep the area with a product called “Tins-tyter” tinning fluid, it’s made by the R.E.Montgomery Co., Lombard, Illinois. I’m not sure if it is available anymore. Then I use a tinning butter, which I believe Eastwood carries this contains lead. I use a clean cotton rag to apply the tinning compounds.
If it is not a highly stressed area and all you need to do is level the surface I would suggest using the plastic fillers that if properly applied bond quite well and are much easier to work with.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I work with lead and only use a brush to put the tinning on the repair. After heating it to melting point I use a pattle and tallow to move it around.

Good luck

Keith

I'm no bodywork 'Guru' Denny....but I've always said, if the body guys 60 years ago had 'bondo' available to them.
They would have probably used it.
I DO understand lead has its uses too.(In high stress areas as you mention)

I have no qualms about using 'bondo',as it's what I understand and my limited body skills allow.
Everything in moderation though, I'm trying to use as little of it as I can!
I try to work the metal to a stage where it just needs a light skim coat.
My 2cents....

No disagreement there Scotty, I have worked with a lot of body men over the years and yes, as I said earlier, Bondo is the filler of choice for many years now in the vast majority of cases. The George Barris lead sleds of the 50’s would have been plastic had it been a couple of decades later.
The advantage is that if the lead is applied correctly the panel can be bent or formed quite a bit without the filler breaking loose where the plastic fillers will crack if bent very much. A good application of lead would be on a compound curve high crown panel; a bad choice would be in the center of a low crown panel like a door skin or roof. Chances are you are going to create more problems than you had by applying heat to a low crown panel.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I'm also using bondo for the small dents and the usual things. I like the lead to fill mounting holes, the original leaded joints, and the areas were bondo isn't a good idea. I guess I wasn't trying to start a debate on lead vs bondo just trying to learn from your experiance.

So is everyone else getting along with the acid brushes? I havent tryied the tinning fluid maybe thats were I'm going wrong.

I guess I could be putting too much heat into it but it seems like I have to hit a certin point before the tinning compound I have will melt and bond.

Thanks for the input.

dreasoner, sorry if we 'hijacked' your post.
You're a braver man than I!
I watched a friend lead load a Karmann Ghia a few years back but I lack the patience and skill to tackle this.
I hope you get to the bottom of the problem.
Good Luck.
Jock

I would not heat the metal before putting on the tinning butter as Easteood product goes on the metal cold with a acid brush then is heated up and when it gets shiny its sticking to the metal and is tinned. When you start using your lead warm it up a bit at the tip to get it soft. Then start working it on the low or spot that needs to be filled in using your paddle to move and level it as you go. Remember if it comes out too low add a bit more or if it is close let it cool and use your Vixen file to smooth it down. Now you can add some spot puddy to get it right or to fill pin holes. I should of mentioned when preparing your metal for lead I grind it off smooth then I wipe the metal with wash thinner. to clean it off.
62Blue
Don