The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What is the correct GAP?

I have gone from one cylinder firing to no cylinder firing. I have NEW plugs (Gap - don't remember: What is the GAP?) NEW Distributer Cap, New Wires, New points (was told 18, now I was told to try 30 -- What is the GAP? New Rotor Cap, New Coil (12 Volt) New resister, New voltage regulator, Rebulit Generator, Rebuilt Starter and last but not least, a New battery.

NO SPARK!! Help please!!

One other thing: The wire that comes from the ALT gauge..(green in color) Does it go on the top (1st screw on the voltage regulator?...I think I put it in the wrong place. I put on on the top left screw that bolts the voltage regulator to the firewall. :confused:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

Thanks Jeff..

Any thoughts on the correct wiring on the voltage regulator?

Also if I still do all of that and still no spark, any thoughts on what I should check next?

Jeff S.

Be sure and check that you have voltage going to that new coil.Also check the gap on the points with the lobe pusing them to thier widest opening they should be gaped to .20.
Check all that new stuff you bought because I have found bad parts right out of the box from the parts store.Good luck!!!
Hobert

I would look for a wiring diagram here, in my shop manual or at the local library. You haven't indicated what model and year. If it was firing on one cylinder only, the firing order must be wrong.

What's an ALT gauge?

Sorry guys...55 Chevy PU with a 235 6 cyl. All but one was firing. I have 100 compression on 2 cyl, 95 on two cylinders, 90 on one cylinder and 85 on one cylinder. It was running good one day and just started missing, then one day it acted like it ran out of gas, it started back up and ran for about 10 minutes, and then I found that the coil was so hot, I could hardly touch it.
that is when I started replacing parts, and now it just spins and trys to fire but it won't.

thanks for any input.

The resistor or the starter resistor bypass may be hooked up wrong if the coil overheats. Did you retime it after the changes?

Sometimes the "pass through" insulator that hooks up to the points from the coil breaks (it's plastic) and starts to short out to ground. This causes the coil to overheat and keeps any spark from getting through. You might want to check it.

Where is the pass through insulator? Is that the same resistor that is inside the distributor?

And I said ALT gauage, but meant AMP//

Just a thought....Some coils have the resistor built in to it and some do not. If you installed a coil with a resistor and also installed an external resistor that could be your problem.

Sport, I had a miss in my 235. I pulled the plugs and gapped them all to .035. One of them had virtually no gap at all-I assume that was the problem because she's a'purrin now.

Sport55 - That is a capacitor inside the distributor.