The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Leaf Spring Removal Question

I have been working on removing the rear leaf springs from my 58 (1/2 Ton) Apache. What is up with the rear leaf springs? The forward pin that the leaf connects to (closest to the cab) doesn't look right.

I was able to remove the shackles from the rear no problem. But the forward pin doesn't have anything to wrench on. There is a small nut connected to ??? just below the connecting pin. I am confused...

How do you remove that portion of the leaf?

Anyone removed this before?

casey,
maybe this will help you. you can click forward and backward to see the entire article.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/55ctsm0472.htm

leonard

Casey,

What you describe sounds like the front pin used on 3/4 ton and bigger trucks. The small nut is on the end of a tapered lock pin that holds the shackle pin in.

Loosen the small nut a little and then tap on the nut to loosen the lock pin. Finish removing the nut and drive the lock pin out.

From the inside of the frame, you should then be able to use a long drift punch to drive the shackle pin out.

The shackle pin itself is smooth like a kingpin with groove in one end for the lock bolt.

I have a 38 chevy 1/2 ton. Trying to remove closed torque tube rear end. I am stuck on removing the rear leaf spring top shackle. 38 service manual is no help.
Help! Everything else is off, just need to drop rear shackle and remove rear end. Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated

oldbald2

The rear shackles are held on with one center bolt, which holds two side plates on two pins which ride in two bushings. The side plates have holes which line up with the center pins. These holes are tapered to match the tapered ends of the pins. Secure the leaf spring to the frame with a small safety chain and with the center bolt out, smack the side plates of the shackle with a hammer and they should come right off. The center pins are threaded into the bushings, they are threaded all the way through, standard right hand thread.

The front bolt on the rear springs has a lock nut holding the main bolt on. Undo the lock nut, then unscrew the main bolt.

Joe

Joe H,

Thanks alot for the info, this morning took your advice and it worked like a charm. Great 37 you have. I lifted the rear end of the frame with a shop crane/cherry picker, put on the wheels tires and rolled the rear end and torque tube drive shaft right off.
I am contemplating putting in a 250 chevy six also, but was thinking about a powerglide and rear end from a nova, chevelle, camaro. Alot of guys in southern california are buying these model late sixties and early seventies cars and taking the drive train out and putting muscle car drivetrain. Many of these engines, powerglides and rear ends have 308, 321, 342 and 355 to 1 rear end.
I saw you installed disc brakes on the front of your 37 using the solid front axle, was it hard to do this and are they power brakes? Did you also stay with the stock steering or go to power or faster steering? Also in you write up for your 37, it says you put in new leaf springs, are the new springs, stock replacements? front and back? did the stock leaf springs work with the firebird rear end?
I hope my 38 comes out as nice as your 37. This truck has been in my father in laws family since the 50's and I finally got my father in law to let me restore it back to working order. I wanted to get it back to him so he can enjoy it, he is going to be 78 in August.

oldbald 2

Glad it came apart. Once you know how it works, its a easy job. I used new stock replacement springs on the front of mine with three leafs removed from the bottom of the stack. The rears are still original. I used the 1 3/4" spring pads froma '55 Chevy rear axle. You can get the spring pads from any trailer shop. Other then the spring pads, the axle is stock 3.08 '79 Firebird 10 bolt.

The front axle is a stock '55 Chevy truck, it was in it when I bought it. The only difference is the king pin diameter. The disk brake kit is from ( www.mpbrakes.com/ ) Master Power Brakes.
Its a bolt on kit using stock GM parts. Mine are manual brakes but you can add a power booster if needed. I like the way mine stops, but some think its a little stiff.

As far trans and engine go, the 250 is a good choice but requires new mounts and cross members. I would go with a 200R4 or T350 for a transmission, stay away from the power glide. A over drive and a 3.42 rear gear or 3.55 would be just right. My 3.08 with out over drive works good on the highway but is just a touch to high for around town and stop light to stop light. It was a lot peppier with the 3.42 but ran to high rpms at 70+ mph.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for all the info and your feedback. Appreciate all the insight. WRT your trucks steering did you keep the stock manual steering or go with a power steering set up or a faster steering box?
This weekend I am taking the front drum brakes off and evaluating what worn parts I have to replace there before going with the disc brake conversion. With your 3.08 rear end gears what rpm range are running at say 60-65mph with your 250?

oldbald2

I am using a steering box out of a '41 truck. '41 to '46 will bolt in and use recirculating balls for easier steering. The ratio is a bit slower also which makes it turn easier. Send me a note and I can explain what is involved.

I run a 235/75R15 radial in back with 205/75R 15 in front. At 70 mph the rpm is in the 2500 range, 1900 rpm in the 55 mph range.