Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (baldeagle),
56
guests, and
9
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,020 Posts1,055,345 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#54923 01/13/2006 12:05 AM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 | I have a 51, 235. My question is about the timing marks. I have flywheel markings of " 111, O(BB), then triangle. TDC is the BB I assume. If I want 2 degrees before or after what do I do? What do the other marks mean? The eng is not running.
Glenn, | | |
#54924 01/13/2006 3:04 AM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | There should be a UIC mark also. The I between U and C is TDC or Upper Center. The ball should be 6 degrees before if it is a 51 flywheel.
The triangle is used when checking cam timing.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
#54925 01/13/2006 4:07 PM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 | Thx Dave. I'm rechecking those marks.
Glenn, | | |
#54926 01/13/2006 6:58 PM | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 | I'm a rank amateur, and I'm sure Dave probably knows more about this than I do, but I can tell you this is one of the more confusing things I have run into. Without going into a lot of detail, I had a terrible time getting my truck to start after rebuilding the engine. When I finally used the triangle as the timing mark, it started on the first try.
I do have a later model engine than yours, and that may make make a difference. Allen | | |
#54927 01/13/2006 9:42 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 | I have a a '55 235 in my '40 GMC. Its using a 41-54 flywheel. When I put it in I tried to time the distributor using the BB mark, but it wasn't right. I found that the triangle was the correct mark. I set it there and it runs great. Steve | | |
#54928 01/16/2006 1:26 PM | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 26 | ndnchf,
I am just starting a similar swap to yours - I am putting a 1962 261 into my 1942 truck ( with 1940 engine ). I just pulled the flywheel from the old engine, and see that the bolts fastening it to the crank are a bit smaller than the new engines counterpart - will this be a problem?
Also, does the flywheel only bolt to the crank 1 way? If there is a way to index it wrong I usually like to try that way first - or did Chevrolet anticipate this and make the drive dowels on the crankshaft tail end only fit the proper way ( so that these timing marks line up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC )?
The easy way would be for me to try it, but the new engine is on a stand and access to the back of this motor is not available right now.
Thanks,
Stewart | | |
#54929 01/16/2006 6:09 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Not only are the bolts smaller on 1940-41 but the center pilot hole is larger.
It would be best to use a 1942-62 flywheel.
The bolts and pins are offset so it will only go on one way.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
#54930 01/16/2006 6:22 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 | Stewart,
The 40's flywheel holes are smaller and present a problem. Fortunately for me, the '55 235 I used came with a '41-'54 10-3/4 clutch flywheel. So I used that. As Dave mentioned, using the later flywheel is the way to go. Make sure you get one with the ring gear to match your starter (6 volt or 12 volt). While the 6 flywheel mounting holes look symetrical, they are actually made slightly different so the flywheel can only mount in one position. I wrote up some lessons learned from the swap here: http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=010423#000000
Steve | | |
#54931 01/16/2006 10:51 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Now would be a good time to mention that you use the hole above the starter to time it, not the hole on the driver's side.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#54932 01/17/2006 2:33 PM | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 26 | Originally posted by ndnchf: I wrote up some lessons learned from the swap here: http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=010423#000000
Steve Steve, I read your post about your swap and appreciate your details about it. I will be at the machine shop tomorrow and talk to the man about opening up the mount holes on my old flywheel. The drive goes through the dowels, so I hope he can sneak my 261 crank mount bolts thru - as I don't know how availible 235 or 261 flywheels are in Canada. Stewart | | |
| |