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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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Jul 21st, 2025 | | 
#54857 01/12/2006 2:10 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 | Hey everybody. My son decided to work on his fiance's '93 Nissan Pathfinder and succeeded in breaking off two of the exhaust manifold bolts. Then he drilled them and broke off the easyout in the bolt. Any suggestions on removal short of pulling the head and taking it to a machine shop? I know this ain't 'Bolt related but my sons Dad owns one.  Any and all ideas greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
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#54858 01/12/2006 2:53 AM | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy Jeff, this is a VERY NASTY thing to fix, if you could get a carbide drill you should be able to drill out the easy out, but my vote is to remove the head and take it to a machine shop so you don't inadvertantly cause more damage, good luck [you'll need it] | | |
#54859 01/12/2006 3:11 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 | I was afraid of that. As far as luck goes, my son will need it. He broke it! Thanks for the reply.
Jeff
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
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#54860 01/12/2006 4:52 AM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I fix these manifold studs on a daily basis. I've drilled around the extractor and removed it that way before. You will have to heli-coil it to a 10mm stud and run the possiblity of hitting the coolant passage directly behind the studs location. Be very careful not to drill too deep. Is it the right rear stud or the left front that started all of this?
Scott | | |
#54861 01/12/2006 5:28 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | Extractors, as you've just found out, are hard and brittle. You can bang on them with a chisel and bust them and then remove the parts. Just take your time and be careful. | | |
#54862 01/12/2006 2:24 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 454 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 454 |
Jeff Nelson
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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#54863 01/12/2006 5:49 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | After fighting with it for a while study how easy it is to remove the head and take it in. A machine shop with an EDM will be able to disintegrate the easy out along with the broken bolt and leave the factory threads in place. If the drill pushes off the easy out and wrecks the threads the only option is helicoil and without a good center position for the helicoil drill the position/strength of the repair could be compromised and you could be looking at a new head. If you can break up and remove the ez out you could try that again with a little heat. Good luck.
Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
#54864 01/13/2006 3:54 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 546 | Thanks to all for the replys.
Jeff
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
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