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#546134 06/13/2009 12:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
Has anyone attempted to seal the cab corners on an AD at the top at the floor level? I was toying with the idea. I was thinking about seam sealer on the inside of the cab corner and a sheet metal cover and seam sealer at the top. As designed, unless the truck has been high and dry or in AZ they are rusted. Condensation and leaks end up there along with any other crap that blows around in the cab. So talk me out of it or give me some ideas.
thanks

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Not sure if that would be a good idea Neil.

I would think boxing the corners would still allow condensation to build during temperature fluctuations....even if they were totally sealed.
Water/condensation will always find it's way to the lowest point.
Would I be right you get high humidity in Mississippi?

I plan to get my cab as watertight as is humanly possible.Good ventilation will help too.

Personally I'm just going to keep an eye on them,keep them clean and bear in mind most of us won't be using our trucks as workhorses any more.So dirt and rubbish gathering shouldn't be so much of a problem.

My truck spent it's first 55 years in So-Cal and even they were rusted out .
The drains were blocked with about two pounds of silt/sand each!They had been repaired some time in the past with a load of lead.
What I do know is repro corners don't come with the drain louver.
I still need to address that problem.
Just my 2cts.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 06/13/2009 7:31 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
There should still be less condensation because the air in that area is now closer to the temperature of the outside air and not cab temperature which we keep cool in the summer and hot in the winter. You also wont get all the condensation from the back wall above it running down there. I cut drains in the new corners so they will be able to vent. Without the crap that will end up down there in my truck to hold the moisture they would have to last longer. I intend to treat my truck like a truck and use it as a driver and to do truck stuff. I will however screw the covers down so I can check up on how they look. What would last longer an open coffee can with organic matter in the bottom and a 3' tall piece of sheet metal standing in it or one with a top on it? There is also some outside moisture being blown into the drains but it seems to me like that would be very little.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Good points Neil....You seem to have talked yourself into it.
It's your truck after all,if you're happy,then go for it.
I was also planning to 'flood' mine and other sections with this stuff.
I've used it for years on many of my projects.
It's a bit smelly on initial application but that soon goes.
Plus i'm not sure,but I don't think your roads get salted in winter do they?
I think my cab corners will outlast me! eek


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 48
4
Apprentice
Apprentice
4 Offline
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 48
I'm not sure if you mean the front corners or the back corners, but I sealed both of mine with POR-15. Mine's a Colorado truck but it had rusted through wherever crud had accumulated. I wire-brushed it and painted on POR-15; that was 5 or 6 years ago and it still looks great, no rust, although I occasionally find condensation. For the bigger holes I used POR-Putty and fiberglass cloth. Worked great.

Good luck.


Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
W
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
W Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
I have used a product called LPS 3 for many years with excellent results.
It appears to be similiar to the Waxoyl described in the other post.
It will displace moisture and forms a waxy film on the surface.
I find it readily available at most local parts stores at a reasonable cost.
What I have always liked about it is it is thin enough to seep into the tight corners and the hem flanges,and is available in an aerosol form with a straw to reach into tight places,like the corners of doors, etc.
Google LPS3 and check it out.

Last edited by Wally Body; 06/19/2009 10:43 AM. Reason: spelling

Moderated by  klhansen 

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