|
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| |
7 members (TUTS 59, DES57, BLUEMEANIE, Peggy M, Waveski, 55shaker, Joe W),
535
guests, and
1
robot. | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,282 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | I finally found the castle nut I need for the U-Joint yoke on the pinion. Does the nut get torqued? Or is there a measurement how far the end of pinion is above the top of the castle nut? Truck is a 53 6400.
Thanks, ~Ron
Last edited by mummdogg; 06/12/2009 7:16 PM.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | Most pinion nuts get tightened until there is a specific amount of drag, called "preload" as the yoke is turned. Those ones use "crush" sleeves between the inner and outer pinion bearing cones, and there is way too much clearance when the sleeve is new. It takes a massive amount of torque to get the sleeve to begin shortening itself (crush). Once the crush sleeve allows the bearing cones to contact the outer races (called the cups), a slight amount more tightening produces the necessary drag. A crush sleeve is a one-time use item, so get a new one anytime you're building up a ring & pinion set. Most pinion nuts used in that application don't lock with a cotter pin, however. They will either have a nylon self-locking insert, or they just hold their position from being very tight.
If the pinion preload is set with shims instead of a crush sleeve, you'll probably have a hole or two in the pinion shaft for a cotter pin, and the nut needs to be TIGHT! Don't back the nut off to align with a pin hole, either tighten it some more, or file the castle nut slots enough that the pin will fit one of the holes. Red LocTite is also your friend! Normal pinion preload for a passenger car or light truck will be somewhere in the 12 to 25 inch-pound range to keep the pinion gear turning witn no other drag such as the ring gear, axles, etc. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy mummdogg, would you please tell us all where you located the nut in question? | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | That rear shouldnt have the crush sleeve that Jerry mentions. I believe the torque is upwards of 250 pounds. I tightened mine with a 6' pipe until my back and arms hurt. Put a little sealent on the pinion splines before slipping the yoke on, that makes sure you wont have a leak if the parts are a little worn. Also, make sure the cotter pin hole is lined up outside the yoke, you dont want to take it back off!
Jeff | | |
| |
|