The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Looking for opinions

I just got my '53 one ton and began taking parts off the engine. My friend suggests that since I am cleaning things up on it, I should go ahead and replace the oil pump, water pump, and fuel pump while I have it partially disassembled.

The truck has not been out of the barn since '75 and I am not sure what all it exactly needs. He believes I will need to replace all of these things so I should do it now.

Looking for opinions: replace it all now, or try to get it running with what I have and replace things as needed later.

Cost is not that big of an issue.

THanks,

Huthip

The oil pump should be OK, but the water and fuel pumps should be done. Be sure to get parts for the specific engine you have(a 1956, 235)

My 2 cents is different. If the fuel pump goes bad, you coast to a stop and you replace it without any special tools. If the oil pump goes bad, there's a risk of destoying the engine when you lose oil pressure. An oil pump is also much more difficult to replace than a fuel pump. You need to drain the oil, drop the pan, and work in tight spaces between the cam and the block. I'd replace the oil pump now, while it's in the shop and you have a comfortable place to work. Again, just my 2 cents.

"cost is not that big of an issue" really says it all. Even though I do agree with 54TWOW I would recommend changing them all. No need to be a penny rich and a pound poor when you do not have to.

Not that I have money to burn, but would rather knock things out from the start when things are disassembled. Thanks for the input, I think I will replace all three to get it over with.

Huthip

Have you heard it run yet? I would verify it's a good engine before throwing money at it,
Scott

48bigtrucks has made a good point. Before tossing a bunch of parts on the engine, I'd do a through evaluation, starting with some light oil lube in the cylinders....slow rocking with the flywheel just in case you've got some stuck rings.....light oil on the valve train and spinning the push rods and getting an idea that it wasn't stuck. Once you verify it is free and can be turned over without breaking rings or bending push rods...pop the distributor and spin the pump with a drill motor with fresh oil and a gauge to verify full oil circulation.....and then a compression test to see what you've got to work with.

Once that's verified I'd go for firing it up and running a fast idle and watching for the inevitable leaks from the timing and rear main seals, monitor temps and get an idea about the overall condition of the package.

Once you know it isn't going to bleed like a stuck pig from the rear main, you'd know if bolting on the fuel pump and water pump was worth while.

This may seem like a lot of effort but you will have a better picture of what you've got to work with. I've found that it's better to do some investigative work, especially on an engine that has been dry for so many years. It would be a waste of time and money to hang on a bunch of new parts only to discover that the engine needs to come down for some major R&R.

Dave

Those are good points. I will get my buddy to come over and check those things out with me. I have no idea how to do all of that, but this is why I bought this ole truck, so I can learn these things.

Thanks,

Huthip