The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Worn rear outer axle bearings

1955 1/2 ton first series. I searched a bit for this with no luck. I was replacing a rear wheel cylinder when I noticed a lot of play when I pulled up on the flange that the lug nut studs are in. I thought I better check out the rear outer bearings. I pulled one axle and found that the roller bearings had cut a 1/16" deep grove in the axle. I didn't know that there was never an inside race in these bearings, and that the bearing's rollers are made to ride directly on the axle. I have a couple questions:
1. Has anyone figured out a way to put a proper bearing in this that has both an inside and outside race?
2. Why would they build it like this in the first place, when a "real" bearing seems a better design?
3. What would you recommend I do, if anything, to fix this?
4. Would turning down the axle slightly to provide clearance for a proper bearing be a good idea for a wood hauler?
5. Are there later year exchanges I could make, short of a whole rear end?

There's a few options you could do. 1 would be to find a replacement axle shaft. It would have to be NOS, as they are not being made new to my knowlege. I don't know if one from a '55 2nd would work, I beleive there is a axle length difference. 2nd option would be to have the damaged shaft welded up and remachined to spec. 3rd option would be to use an "axle saver" type bearing, which is a pressed op type bearing similar to the passenger rear or a 9" ford.
I would not turn the axle down, you could comprimise the strength.
I'm not sure what you mean by "real bearing". The only difference is that this style bearing uses the axle shaft itself as the inner race. There's millions of axles out there with this style bearing, all modern 1/2 tons, many 3/4 tons, and virtually all live axle rwd cars use it. Why? Less expensive to manufacture, easier to repair, and to be honest, the other design has no real advantages to the average stret driven vehicle.

1951-61 uses the same axles.

There is a replacement bearing that rides on a different part of the axle. They are listed in the bearing catalogs. Any parts store should be able to supply them. I can get the part number when I get to the shop tomorow.

Turning the axle down is NOT a problem. Hyatt make a bearing inner race for the job, I will have to go out to the shed tomorrow and see if I can read a # for you, off one of the repaired axles I have.

Dusty,
Thanks for the post. I do use this truck for firewood, so I am glad to hear that turning will not weaken it enough to be a problem. That Hyatt part number would be great! - Scott

Wrenchbender,
That is an interesting concept! I would like to get a part number for consideration.
Thanks - Scott

Longbox,
Thanks for the informed view on bearings. I'm still thinkin'.
Scott

Hyatt bearing # IR 1502

Dusty,
Thanks for the numbers. I will have to see if my bearing guys can find it. The old bearing is a Hyatt though. Is this a complete unit that has attached inner and outer race, or does it come as two separate parts? Thanks again - Scott
ps - nice ride

That # is just for the new inner race. The original (factory) bearing is still used.

I looked in the catalog. The bearings that run on the other part of the shaft are for 63 up.

Interesting. I didn't know about this "inner race" part when I replaced my axle due to wear.

I did some searching on page 80-81 of this site: http://198.125.178.188/buick/parts.pdf
It seems to confirm the part numbers and they're used on Buicks. I may machine down my old axle and see how it fits.

Paul

I had a leaking seal on my 53 and the fluid ruined the brakes. When I pulled the axle it had a groove in it from what I presumed was the seal. I found about 8 old axle shafts and all worn in the same place. I considered welding and turning it back to spec but no one wanted to do it. Could a seal actually cause this damage in a steel axle? I know the seal on the timing cover can do it to the crankshaft snub.
In this thread I read about an axle saver. Would this be like a Speedi-Sleeve? Would this solve the problem?

a rubber seal can and will wear a groove in a hardened steel shaft. a speedi sleeve will correct this problem as well as anew seal.some axel housing will also acept whats called a bearing saver which is a bearing and seal that is relocated to run on a fresh spot on the axel. your local parts store can probably help you with the right choise for you.

Yes olblu49 it is common for the seal to eventually wear the axle. The seal surface can be turned down just a little and polished by someone skilled with a lathe, but only a little. Some people have had success shifting the location of the seal a little , but I have not.

The bearing saver, that I gave the # of, is quite thick, much like a normal inner race , maybe 3 or 4mm thick , not at all a speedi sleeve, that would be a different item. also the axle is not turned past where the bearing normally runs , leaving the seal area untouched.

Wisner955 , if you do your own turning , be aware the axle steel is really grissly and you need to have a powerful rigid machine , carbide cutter and a power feed and coolant flow, to take a significant depth of cut, I have had the tool bit just glaze across the surface when too fine a cut was attempted.

Consider getting a machine shop to grind it down. A lot slower but much more controllable job.

Thanks for the info!