The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Starter woes

Story: My pastor (and good friend) called me at work Friday afternoon, needing to borrow me and my pickup after I got off work. I wasn't going to be available, but told him to get the key from my wife and use it as needed. He drove it for abour 2 weeks a year ago when one of his rigs was down, so I was ok with letting him use it. Turns out it wouldn't start. I hadn't driven it for a week or so before, and the trips I did before that were literally just a few blocks to haul stuff to his house (he just finished remodeling.) I figure the battery is dead, but the jumper box does nothing. Lights still work either way. I check the battery and it has 12.6 volts, and no draw whatsoever when the starter pedal is pushed. I figured it was worn contacts, so let it sit a few days over the weekend. Pulled the contacts off it last night, they are good and even if I put power directly to the contact and ground the neg, it still does nothing. I took it off and disassembled it on the bench, shop manual firm in hand. I have continuity from the contact to 2 of the brushes, and continuity from the other 2 brushes to ground. I don't happen to own a "growler" for testing as described in the shop manual, but I think I've eliminated all but the commutator.

Now if that is the case, can I use one from a V8 starter, or do I need to locate another 235 12V starter?

Or have I missed something? It is currently apart on my bench. It would be nice to be able to have it back together before the weekend.

Devin

Devin,

Starters that blow up or burn up usually leave hard evidence behind which can be seen when you pull them apart. Shorted field windings sometimes leave arc tracks to the case or the armature.

Shorted commutator bars can be seen with the naked eye. I will hazard a guess that the starter itself is fine, but you have other problems. I don't know what a 'jumper box' is, but if it were me, I would clean the commutator off, reassemble the starter and test it with a known fully charged battery and some good jumper cables.

The negative cable would be attached to a clean spot on the starter and the positive cable would be touched to the lug where the starter switch connected. If it doesn't spin then, I would give it the last rites.

Stuart

Stuart- I've done as you described on the bench using my jumper box, which is essentially a battery with jumper cables attached, used for jump starting cars. Full good connection at the positive contact and grounded to the mounting ear. I've demonstrated to my satisfaction that it does not work. Something inside has lost connection. If at all possible I need to repair the unit I have rather than replace it due to current finances.

Thanks,

Devin

here a lot of the parts to include a new rebuild

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(vvnkcmruuscnim45nyr3mp55))/Results.aspx?Ne=50000&Ntt=starter&Nao=10&Nty=1&N=599001+101955+50014&Ntk=Keyword

Brad

I got it down to the local electrical expert today. The armature has failed on it. He was doing some checking to see if he had parts there or had to be ordered. I was hoping to have it back by tonight so I could use my truck this weekend, but now i have to wait until Monday.

If this belonged to anybody else I would have told them it needed a starter and been done with it. Since it's mine and I'm currently broke I am going to fix it as inexpensively as possible.

I wrench for a living, and I can make just about anything run, turn and stop. This electromagnetic stuff is just pure freakin' magic to me however.

Devin

Devon
I just today did the exact same process to my starter(s). Did you find yours to be bad?

Is it a standard shift rig? I can't count the times I've parked on a hill and roll-started one with a bad (or missing) starter. Just bolt the hot battery cable to the small connector that supplies the voltage to the dash, tape the connection, push-start it, and drive on!
Jerry