The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tim. Your oil filter adapter?

Tim,

You once posted a picture of your oil filter adapter for a PH13 spin-on. It was mounted to the fire-wall. Where did you get that one?

It looks like that adapter can be used in the stock location on the manifold with the stock hoses. I paid a fair bit for my new hoses (too much!) and need to reuse them.

Thanks.

Wally,

This set-up is on a 1960, 261. Like yours (and 1958-1962 261s), it has a full-pressure/full-flow oil filtration system (I am stating this for others, I know you know this).

oil filter hoses from the block

oil filter mounting head attached to the firewall

I got the head from Jeg's or Summitt Racing but they are available from a variety of places. Pep Boys had a whole kit, including filter-head, adapters, clamps, and hoses for about $25. There is no need for high pressure hoses (mine are expensive overkill - I did not know any better at the time). The oil pressure will never be above 60psi.

Please let me know if you need other information. Note that I reused the nice brass fittings from the original, large canister filter-housing (one had the hole for the oil pressure gauge line).

Good luck,
Tim

I'm measuring my oil pressure like you, at the exit elbow of the oil filter. I read 40-45 psi no matter if the oil is hot or cold (+13 degrees this morning). Is that because the measurement comes after the filter?

Wally,

I am not the one to listen to regarding this matter. My guess is that there is a pressure relief valve/spring and it is stuck. The good news might be that your pressure is good (not too high; not too low).

I await an answer from someone with a better answer.

Tim

do either of you know if this setup can be used on a 1962 235 engine? have you had any problems with the exhaust manifold melting the rubber hoses?

I need an oil filter setup on my '54 3800. Evidently, it was never equipped with one. Thx.

Wow, a post from the past! Click on the web link in my signature below to see the too-expensive Moroso adapter that I put on.

I made the mistake of picking one which took Chev spin-on filters. (I didn't need no stinkin' F*** filter.) Those do not have by-pass valves. I should have gone with the adapter for F*** filters which, apparently, have the by-pass valves built in. I now have to use a more expensive filter designed for a Wisconsin engine.

Papa Ed, Sorry I didn't reply. I've had no problem with my hoses getting hot.

Kurt, I've seen a description of how to add a filter but I can't remember where (Jim Carter's web site?). If you can't find it, you might start a new thread with your question in the Title. Good luck!!

"Kurt, I've seen a description of how to add a filter but I can't remember where (Jim Carter's web site?). If you can't find it, you might start a new thread with your question in the Title. Good luck!!"

I'll try that! I didn't see how to post a new topic, but I do now.
Thx!

Kurt@KKF

Wally; you can also get a kit similar to Tim's at NAPA. Do a search online at their site for a remote oil filter. Has the aluminum bracket and uses a NAPA 1515 filter. Comes with hoses, etc. I did this on my 261 but mounted it behind the alternator bracket on a special bracket I made up instead of on the firewall. Originally used the hi temp, hi pressure hoses but then was too edgy with the hoses so close to the new dual exhaust. Repiped the in and out piping with stainless steel and brass fittings. Some original pics were posted on my engine rebuild album and then some half *** pics later in the album because I couldn't get a good camera shot in on the engine once it was installed.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

Might as well toss in mt $.02! I had my 235 drilled and tapped, and set up for a full pressure filter system. I have pics of my mount and the running of my lines for another mounting option in my "Tips and tricks album." If you are running headers, there will be issues with heat and your line routing for a firewall mount. As was mentioned earlier, it's not so much a pressure issue as it is one of protecting your lines from exhaust pipe heat and securing them so that you won't loose a line and wind up with engine damage or worse yet, an oil fire.

I might add, that running the remote lines with sturdy fittings is by no means cheap. My setup ran me close to $150. but the end result is a reliable system, easy to change the filter from over-the-fender (I use a catch can) and I can visually monitor all the lines at a glance.

Whether you're wanting to relocate your bypass filter or mounting a full pressure filter to the firewall, you need to consider cost, line and fitting sizes to insure that your system does what you want it to do safely. Hope this helps.

Dave