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#54448 01/04/2006 4:30 AM | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | I have a Rochester B carburetor one barrel with a manual choke in my truck. I don’t have an ID tag on the carburetor.
I’m having trouble finding a rebuild kit for it. Napa has one for the Rochester with an auto. choke (BC). I don't know if this one will work.
I’ve never rebuilt a carburetor before. Has anyone else had problems with finding a rebuild kit for Rochester Bs?
Are they tricky to rebuild? I’d hate to shell out money for something that I could do myself.
Thanks. | | |
#54449 01/04/2006 7:42 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | There's really not much to those 1 bbl carbs. I think the key thing to look at is if the shaft for the butterfly valve is worn out. If it has a bunch of slop and leaks air, it might be hard to correct for that. I guess the key question is, how does the truck run right now (if at all!)  ? | | |
#54450 01/04/2006 8:50 PM | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | It runs pretty well for the most part. But I have a hard time keeping it from running too rich. I'm always cleaning and re-gapping the plugs because of carbon buildup.
It tends to miss and sputter after being run at a high RPM for a long period of time. I'm wondering if the carb float is not adjusted correctly. | | |
#54451 01/04/2006 9:15 PM | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 | For what it's worth, I've never had much luck rebuilding carbs. I've been able to take them apart, and put them back together with the new parts, but they never seem to be much better after I finish than before I started.
It's hard to find exactly the right kit for these old ones. Generally you end up with one that is supposed to work with several different models, and then you're not really sure if you have the right parts, or which ones you should use in the kit.
I think the problem is that they are old, everything is worn and loose and the parts you replace don't correct all the problems.
Also it is hard to get everything adjusted properly. For example: You mentioned the float. Maybe someone can give you some advice on how to do that properly, but with me it is always hit or miss, guess at it, and hope it is right. Unless money is a real consideration I would recommend using your old one for a core, and getting a factory rebuilt one.
I'm not sure, but I think there are new 2 barrels that you can get, which should help everything.
Probably a lot of people will disagree with me. I'd be interested in hearing other opinions. Allen | | |
#54452 01/04/2006 10:01 PM | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 | I used a carb kit from Napa to rebuild my carb on my 61 Napa Echlin # 2-5158 | | |
#54453 01/04/2006 10:30 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | The first thing I would look at is to make sure the base gasket is not blocking the power valve port on the bottem of the carb. They will run rich if blocked. Most gasket kits give you a gasket to fit the later model B carb but will block the port on the earlier models.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
#54454 01/05/2006 6:47 AM | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | Many thanks. I appreciate the information. | | |
#54455 01/07/2006 1:13 AM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | Here is a good thread..... (hope this works) carbking and the \'B
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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#54456 01/07/2006 1:16 AM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | gotta get to about the middle of the thread.... sorry about that.
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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