The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (MickeyP, Joe H, Jon G), 121 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,050
Posts1,055,646
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#542601 06/01/2009 6:30 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
I saw it some where on here the other day and was wandering where. If any one can help that would be great. What is supposed to be black on a AD truck? IE.. frame? brake drums? what else?

Kenny Broomfield

551st3800 #542646 06/01/2009 2:09 PM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
Kenny, Not much else. Axles, backing plates,steering parts, driveshaft,tranny, springs, left the factory bare metal.
The question may be, do you want it bare metal so it can rust just like it did originally or coat it with something so you don't have to look at rusty parts.
I realize some guys are stuck on original, but I prefer to look at paint not rust.
I also think the factory would have painted stuff if they were not so concerned with producing something as cheap as possible which is why I paint what they forgot to paint.
I don't intend on entering my truck into national competition for originality so if someone says those parts on my truck were not factory painted, I say ya your right, and they're not rusty either.
Do what trips your trigger, have fun with it, it's your truck.

Dan


Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it.
101st Screaming Eagles
glasman #543085 06/03/2009 1:47 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
Originally Posted by glasman
Kenny, Not much else. Axles, backing plates,steering parts, driveshaft,tranny, springs, left the factory bare metal.
The question may be, do you want it bare metal so it can rust just like it did originally or coat it with something so you don't have to look at rusty parts.
I realize some guys are stuck on original, but I prefer to look at paint not rust.
I also think the factory would have painted stuff if they were not so concerned with producing something as cheap as possible which is why I paint what they forgot to paint.
Dan

If I left them bare metal is there something that I could put on them so they would not rust? Can you clear coat plain metal?

Kenny Broomfield

551st3800 #543130 06/03/2009 3:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
I use a Loctite product called "Extend Rust Converter (Neutralizer) "


~Jim
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
Originally Posted by BIG CHEVY 3600
I use a Loctite product called "Extend Rust Converter (Neutralizer) "

Do you sandblast first than this or what? I have never used this product or heard of it. Will it leave the metal "clean" looking?

Kenny Broomfield

551st3800 #543560 06/04/2009 7:10 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
Ken - a rust converter is for use over surface rust, any scale or loose flakey bits should be cleaned off first, but blasting might not be necessary, and if done, converting isn't needed .... converts the iron oxide [rust] to something stable and well bonded to the metal - leaves any rust area black, doesn't change the texture, so pitting still looks like pitting but the rust is gone and the metal's protected

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Flxible #544286 06/07/2009 4:47 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
So are you guys saying that if you had a 100% correct AD truck in 5 years you would have thick rust on the non black parts? What would someone that wanted a clean nice truck do to keep the non black parts looking nice?

Kenny Broomfield

551st3800 #544287 06/07/2009 4:48 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
Bill, I love your bus and have always wanted to do a project like that. Maybe after I finish my Chevy oh and find one.

Kenny Broomfield

551st3800 #544310 06/07/2009 6:27 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
I've been driving a '58 every day in any weather for 15 years [coastal BC, think lots of wet roads, snow and road salt] - it had no paint on the trans, driveshaft, frame, springs, rear end or brake drums from the factory or when I got it, and it still doesn't .... there is no "thick rust" on any of that, there's surface rust on most of the undercarriage, and I'd expect it to be about the same after another 50 years - where real corrosion happens is where water gets trapped, under the paint or between riveted members or in pinch welds .... gonna take all the frame cross members off and paint the pieces before re-assembly? how about the rivets?

if you want to have a show truck, paint it up - but keep it clean and dry or be ready to repaint everything regularly wink not too many folks be crawling under your truck to check the paint

you should be able to find an old Flx down there, lots built, every bus company on the continent had'em [probably your local] .... with unpainted undercarriages no less grin the only place corrosion on the Clippers was a problem was the spring mounts, which are open top 'boxes' with no drainage, I dug about 2" of stuff out of them, fortunately it was such fine silty stuff it was packed enough to keep oxygen out, wasn't hard to cleanup, then I used some good rustproofer in those - go another 60 years easy

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Flxible #544388 06/07/2009 5:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 293
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 293
And I would like to add that nice and even surface rust looks quite nice, it certainly does not look "dirty", bits of rust will not fly away as you drive! Go for the clean rust!


'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
wave1957 #544403 06/07/2009 6:58 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 52
Thanks to all. I would like to make my truck as nice and as original as I can. I would like to have a show winning original looking truck so I will leave my metal clean and not painted.

Kenny Broomfield


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0