The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Front End Plate

Hey it's Pork-

Now i'm putting my front end plate back on. It has 3 machine screws which need to be torqued at 15-20 ft lbs. How do I know what the actual tourque is on the screws? I just took the biggest screwdriver I have and turned as hard as I could. Should I buy an attachment for my torque wrench that's a flat head or should I just turn as hard as i can and assume it's ok? also should i use loctite..

thanks pork

'59 chevy 235 1/2 ton fleetside bbw

If the screwdriver bit for a torquewrench is too expensive, you can put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver and tighten it some more. I've used impact screwdrivers that you hit on the end with a hammer while turning screw to tighten. Then stake the screws in place. Loctite isnt a bad idea either. Make sure your gasket between plate and block is good and sealed with red hi tack or spray haylomar. Good time to tap the front main cap for 3/8" bolts if cap is still accessable. Have to clearance drill front plate and timing cover so bolts will clear, tho.

Use new bolts and loctite on the cam retaining plate too. Check timing gear runout and backlash. Good idea to degree cam to be extra sure everything is in spec.

chip

I just installed my Front plate on my 261 engine and I did as Chiphead recommended using the largest flat-head screw driver that fit the screws. My screwdriver had a wrench hold near the handle and I used an adjustable wrench to give it a little extra torque. I then staked the screw at the bottom of the slot with a punch.

20 ft-lbs isn't very much!

You could get a 12 inch crescent wrench on the screwdriver and place 20 pounds on the end of the wrench.

Thanks guys...

I took the biggest screwdriver i had and put a crescent wrench on the shaft towards the handle and turned the hell out of it.....i think that should do it!!

pork