The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 rebuild

I have been searching for awhile but am unable to find any manuals on rebuilding the 216/235 engines. Is there such a thing?
If this is in the wrong place please move.

Thanks

Ed

The 1947 to 1952 Chev Truck shop manual gives you all the details.

Cool, thanks for the fast reply


Ed

since i have been doing research on the 216 rebuild, i would have to agree that the 47-52 is the most complete guide i have come across.

are you rebuilding to factory original or are you upgrading some things?

just curious because i need to make some decisions about the rebuild on my engine and would like to hear what you have in mind.

If you have to do something with the rods, the easiest way is to have them machined for inserts. That gives you a modern bearing material to run on.

PJ, just thought I might throw out my opinion on your 216 based on what I’m planning on doing to mine soon. I know you appreciate that the 216 was a good little engine having had it around you for all those years. A lot of people seem to want to swap them for a 235 but I still think that an engine that will keep on truckin’ for more than half a century is a keeper.

I have done about every thing except the short block on mine. When I’m ready I will make sure mine is dipped in the hot tank to assure that all the oil and water passages are clear. I'll have it bored the minimum amount to take out any taper and fitted with aluminum pistons. I want the crank sent out and checked, and have it ground and balanced if it needs it. The rods I will have bored for insert bearings. New cam bearings, new cam, lifters, timing gears and oil pump. The flywheel I will have resurfaced and install a new clutch, Pressure Plate, TO bearing and pilot bearing.

I've already had the head Magnafluxed, pressure checked, fitted with hard seats, and new guides, new valves and springs and had it resurfaced. It was also dipped in the hot tank for the same reason that the block will be done.

As I've documented here over the last couple of years, I have also put a new water pump on rebuilt the starter, generator, distributor, new hoses, clamps thermostat and had the radiator flushed and checked by a reputable shop.

Do all of this and you should have a very dependable driver well into your retirement.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny , I don't think You can boil the short block unless You get the mains and the cam changed to insert bearings the babbit will not take the heat of the hot tank.
Pete

The 216 always had inserts for mains and cam bearings.

Denny,
did they actually replace the guides? Most shops that I talked to put bronze inserts into the existing guides.

Thank you Fred! I did say that I will be replacing the cam bearings also dint I?

Yes, the guides are steel. In fact I had two heads done by two different shops so I have a spare head on the shelf. Both shops replaced the guides with a steel guide, I just now went out an too another look to make sure.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,
you are a lucky man to have a spare! As they say, two heads are better than one!

Fred

Good one, Fred.

Sorry about that, an old auto mech. at My son inlaws shop (retired) told Me that so this mourning I looked it up and it does have inserts .
live and learn , Pete

P.J.
Sorry for the late response but I am planning on just a reuild and no upgrades other than replacing the babbits. I also have a newer 235 I have been claning and playing with that doesn't need the bearing upgrades. I am just not sure of the water pump modifications.
I am still thinking about staying with the original engine when I get to that point.

Ed

thanks for all the responses. good to hear ideas so i can decide which way to go.

denny, i think you have the right idea, i am just not sure that i can take that much time to get the truck back on the road. just hate the idea of the truck being down for so long.

looking for a good used vehicle i can drive in the mean time, but...