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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,327 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 | For two years I ran a T5 behind my 350 with a 10" clutch. The pedal is original (1957), and the clutch arm (to TO bearing) and clutch linkage offset arm are correct to the engine (1970). The whole clutch kit was new, and the flywheel was resurfaced, but when starting from a dead stop in first gear the clutch chattered violently. It never gave any trouble in any other gear, and if I started from a dead stop in second, it didn't bother. I have changed to an MY6 transmission using a new 11" clutch disc (the flywheel is tapped for both size pressure plates), and the violent chattering continues--only starting from a dead stop, but it bothers a little in reverse now. I am using the same TO bearing as for the T5, but in my hand it spins smooth as silk. In the clutch arm there are two holes near the outboard end, suggesting the option to insert the offset linkage arm into either hole, with action and feel differing according to which hole you choose. I am using the hole furthest from the TO bearing. The 1957 shop manual shows the clutch linkage arranged so that when the pedal is pushed, the clutch arm is pushed back, but the way the offset arm is attached, when I push the pedal the clutch arm is pulled back. It doesn't seem to make any difference how the clutch is adjusted. What's my problem ? BTW, in 50 yrs of driving I have never owned an automatic, nor ever needed to replace a clutch from wear or damage. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 | Did you replace both the disc and pressure plate with 11"?
I've only run into this once on my 63. The flywheel was heat checked. IIRC you could see tiny cracks and blued metal around them. The machine shop had to make several passes to clean the face of the flywheel. I wouldn't say mine was violent and it would disappear with more RPMs.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 | Larry- I did not replace the pressure plate. I used the PP that came with the T 10 in the truck. I considered using the original clutch disc, but figured as long as things were apart I could spring for a new one | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | I would vist my motor mounts and be sure they are fairly new. Old motor mounts, while they may look good, can deceive you. I changed mine in my truck after 30 years of clutch chatter. I did everything I was told to do, except change the motor mounts. Finally, out of desperation, I changed them and BINGO! No more "chatter". I truly believe the mounts in the truck were the original ones. That wouild have made them 71 years old!! I know for sure they were 30 years old.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | Im going thru the same deal right now. I had my flywheel resurfaced and trued. Im putting in a new clutch,but when i took it apart i noticed where grease from the T/O bearing had gotten onto the flywheel and made a chattery mess of it. You have to use high temp grease on the groove of the T/O bearing,so im not taking any chances this time. Good Luck, Marty | | |
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