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| | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 | dont know if this is the right spot for this post but here goes.i bought a fram HPG1 fuel filter off EBAY for 15.00 so it was a good deal.its a canister type that has a cartridge that you replace.the whole thing is about the size of a oil filter.i cut a piece of 3/16 steel plate to set flush inside my framerails between the tranny mount and rear cab mounts and am going to weld it in flush.now my question is can i drill and tap the plate for 3/8 bolts ?will that alone be strong enough to hold the filter or should i just drill a 3/8 hole and put nuts behind them? thanks.......... dave
1949 Chevrolet 3100 "When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | As a general rule threads reach their full capacity once the engagement is equal to the diameter. For example if a ½” bolt is engaged by ½”of depth it has reached it’s maximum shear strength and doesn’t get any stronger if threaded any deeper than that. Since your amount of engagement is ½ of the bolt diameter you could expect holding capacity to be reduced by 50%. IMO this is adequate for your application.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 841 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 841 | why not do both. drill and tap then put a nut on the back side to be safe, if you can get to it with a wrench. sounds like the filter won't be that heavy so i bet curt is right and it would hold just fine. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | If the back is enclosed denying wrench access, here's a suggestion. Weld nutplates on the bracket before welding it on. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 | well what i ended up doing was go ahead and drilled 3/8 holes put bolts through them then tightened nuts down and welded them to the backside.pretty much the direction cletis was going.just didnt feel good about just tapping 3/16.thanks guys........dave
1949 Chevrolet 3100 "When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | David,
That's an easy way to do it. If you didn't coat the threads with Never-seize before welding, they could be a bear to take apart.
The welding process shrinks the nut and often screws the threads up as you try to remove the bolt...if you can remove the bolt.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Stuart is spot on about the out of round condition. Run your tap thru the welded nut and use a bit of oil as dry will tire your tap quickly.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
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