The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Stand Mounting

I'm getting ready to pull the engine from my '54 3100. Engine and transmission are stock. When mounting to an engine stand, I know you're supposed to mount the engine where the transmission attaches, but the original bolts aren't long enough to fit on the stand. Does anyone have an idea of what size I should be using? The bolt hole on the engine stand is 2 inches long. In addition to recommended length, I'm also looking for diameter and thread for the stock bolts.

Thanks,
Brian

Take one of your bolts to the corner hardware store and buy some 2" longer.

If you are going to remove the clutch assembly before putting the engine back into the truck, you might want to consider removing the clutch assembly, pressure plate, and clutch housing before mounting the engine on the stand. This would make it safer when/if you want to move around the engine on the engine stand.

A Stovebolt 6 complete with clutch housing is longer and heavier than most engine stands will safely handle. Even if you tried to hang it from the clutch housing it's hard to get it balanced so it will turn easily.

Removing the clutch housing is almost required to safely put one on an engine stand.

Grigg

Thanks all. Got the thing out of the truck, but covered in about 55 years worth of mud/grease. I just didn't feel right about mounting it on the clutch housing. Now the fun begins of finding all of the bolts to remove. I removed the transmission (3 speed). The only bolts I can see that attach the clutch housing are the ones on the top. I know there are some more hidden somewhere. My assembly and shop manuals aren't showing them. Any thoughts?

Brian

4 more bolts inside the bellhousing.

Look inside. There are 6 total.

Have to remove the flywheel to get at the rest of the bellhousing bolts.

Grigg

Okay, I've got all 6 bolts identified. I've got the clutch assembly out. Now for the flywheel. The engine turns over pretty easily, so countering the torque is a bit of a challenge. I've removed 2 of the 6 flywheel bolts, but now I'm stuck. I mean really stuck. I've got all of the retaining clip tabs bent back. I've used PB Blaster penetrating oil. I've heated the bolts with a propane torch. I've used a cheater bar on my socket. I've used an impact wrench. I've tried various combinations of the above. These things will not budge. Is there anything else I can do to remove these last few bolts? The first two bolts appear to be in pretty good shape and have very little rust compared to other fasteners on the vehicle. The shop manual says these are supposed to be torqued to 55-60 ft-lbs. Should it really be taking this much to get them undone?

Put a large screwdriver through the side of the bell housing and lock the flywheel. Then take your cheater bar with socket and use as long a piece of pipe that you can reasonably fit over the handle underneath. The bolts should come loose. Mine were in there for years and a 2 foot piece of pipe on a 1/2" rigid socket moved them like butter. Hope this helps and you get it done someway!