The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop need advice on a steering issue

I was working on the truck today and happened to notice a problem with the steering turn radius. If I turn the wheel all the way to the right and measure from the rear bolt on the front spring to the back of the tire, I get 7.5 inches. If I turn it to the left and measure the other side I get 8.5 inches. So I seem to have a tighter turn radius going right than left.

Since I have not really driven the truck other than in and out of the garage I don't know if this will be a real problem driving.

Any clues what could be causing this? I have had the steering box apart and when I reassembled it I had a significant difference in turn left and right so I took it apart and adjusted it as close as I could to center. i am really not lookoing forwad to taking the steering box apart again

Is there anything else that could cause this. I have not had a front end alignment since I replaced the tierod ends and drag link.

Will an alignment fix this...Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Rich

There's 3 things that can cause this problem. 1 is incorrect toe. 2 is incorrect steering stop settings (the little bolts on the axle). 3, and most likely culprit, would be the steering box was not centered before the pitman arm was reinstalled. That would be the first thing I would check. First, find true center on the box. To do that, disconnect the pitman arm, and gently turn the steering wheel lock to lock (be very gentle at the ends of the travell, it's easy to damage the races if you go too hard), the go back 1/2 the number of turns. don't go by the wheel being level, as it may no be correctly centered. That will get the box in the correct position. Then make sure the wheels are straight ahead before you reinstall the pitman arm. That should get it in the correct position. You may also have to adjust the stops on the axle to tweek it. Defiently take it to an alignment shop to get the toe set to the correct potition. If you're uncomfortable doing this, ask the mechanic at the front end shop, they might check the pitman arm to steering box centering for you. I know I would (and have).

The pitman arm only goes on in one position. It is possible to put a steering box together with the sector one tooth out but that would make a big difference. I would check the toe in. Also, I don't know how you would adjust the steering stops. They bolt on in one position only and they are a formed piece of steel.

Bill,
I did just what you suggest in centering the box. Turn all the way one direction, count the turns then split the difference. The pitman arm only go on one way and the drag link is solid.

I think I need to take more measurements (in front and back of the wheels) and see if this is a toe in/out issue as I did replace the tie rod ends.

Maybe a front end alignment will tell the story.

Again thanks for the advice guys
Rich

Right turns are generally the tighter radius ones made in everyday driving. Should be no problem.
Doug

That's not exactly true. I have had trucks in the shop with the pitman arm mounted 90 degrees out, and it caused this exact problem. On the stops, my truck has adjustable stops. Basically, it's a bolt with a locknut. Are the AD trucks different? Mine is a TF.
Now, since it has been determined that the box and pitman are correctly centered, that leads to a toe issue. Perhaps the right tie rod is threaded on too far, toeing the wheels out. An alignment is definetly in order.

I spent the evening putting in my front fender braces. Then despite the fact that i have perfect body lines and gaps (on the truck)I decided to try to move the drivers front fender forward. I am convinced that it is too far back by about 3/8th. To my shagrin it threw everything else off and I spent the rest of the nigth trying to get is back where it was.

It looks like it is not centered on the wheel. I have measured all over this truck, the cab is dead square. the front and rear axles are true to the frame. The body line look great but the front drivers wheel looks like it is an easy inch further forward in the fender well than the pasenger side. This is what lead me to start measuring the wheel alignment. I don't think the 2 are related but who knows????

Doug,
I will get an alignmnet if that doen't fix it maybe they can tell me what ails it. If not i will driver her anyway.
Rich

Responding to the question on the steering stops, on my 51 the stops have small dowels that fit into blind holes in the axle. Also the pitman arm is keyed in such a way that it only goes on one way.

Hey rust bucket 53. Hi Rich - Do you have the hood on the truck? If not put that on first , before trying to align the front fenders and entire nose. Those diagonal braces that go from the inner fenders to the cowl move the nose left and/or right. Shims under the radiator core support will bring the nose up and down. Be sure you have good hood lines at the upper cowl and side cowl first. Then adjust the nose to the hood.- Whitman

Whitman,
Check out the pics on my webshots page (album labeled front end assembly). The body lines and gaps look great. Everything measures out perfectly on the body. There is a slight difference (1/4 to 3/8 of an inch)in the position of the front fenders but other than that it looks great.

The issue is the front drivers wheel looks like it is more forward in the wheel well than the other side. All the measurements on the frame and axles are true for each side. and yes the cab is square on the frame.

This could be a fender issue. I replaced a lot of metal on each of the front fenders. Or could be related to the wheel alignment issue. Either way I am leaving the body alone at this point.

Rich

Rich - I couldn't really see the difference too well in the photos of the front wheel difference that you mentioned. But I do have a suggestion that I could see with the drivers door. It appears to be too far forward. You want at least 1/8" gap at the hindge leading edge. The passenger side door is back father. See if you can move the driver back back a bit, otherwise you'll have paint chipping issues once you get it painted.- Whitman

Check & see if the axle has shifted on the front springs.

Whitman,
The drivers door on this truck is 3/16th narrower than the passenger side. Was from the start. I have heard that since these trucks were essentially hand made that is not an uncommon issue. I measured very carefully before I replaced any sheet metal on the cab. I had to center the door in the hole. I did grind some metal off the door and the jamb but it is very tight.
Pretty observant of you though!

Wrenchbender,
That is a good thought. I did check the spring measures and they are plumb on each side.
I am not sure wht the issue with that wheel/fender is

It sounds like the truck was in an accident, and not fixed properly.(fender too far back, and door too wide for the opening)

Was it this way before you replaced the sheetmetal, or did you not notice it until now?

54Tow

Other than a few dings and some rot this truck was pretty clean. It was a farm truck for many years.

There are a lot of asymmetries on these trucks. They were put together by hand not robotic machines.I am not concerned about the door opening.

The more I measure the more I think the fender itself is the culprit. I did replace a lot of metal on both front fenders. It could be that the fenders are slightly out of kilter and the illusion is a misaligned wheel.

Rich

I measured everything and braced everything before I did any metal work. The door openings are the same now as they were before I started.

OK - it seemed that the (not so)simple solution was that the cowl / door post was too far back somehow.

I appreciate the thought...this is just a mind bogler.