The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop low zinc levels in oil

What brands of oil have a higher level of zinc or are most of you using a additive for your flat tappet cams ?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is formulated for flat tappet engines and comes in a 10w30 weight as well as a 20w50 weight.

hayhauler71,

There is a lot of information available on this subject. I think if you look around you will find that any off-the-shelf, quality motor oil has all the protection needed for most engines.

A new engine running high pressure valve springs coupled with a new cam and lifters (flat) is the perfect candidate for a oil with increaesed levels of zinc. The critical area targeted by the anti-wear properties of the zinc is the extreme load/scuff area between cam lobe and lifter.

This cam lobe/lifter interface becomes less critical with stock valve spring pressures and surfaces that have been run in and worn from use. Unless highly modified, a Stovebolt six would never need the added protection of increased zinc levels.

This is how I see it, but I'm not a professional mechanic.

Stuart

From what I've checked into, all of Valvoline's oils seem to have a higher ZDDP level than others. Royal Purple also has a high ZDDP content, and so far as I've been able to find, is the only full synthetic avalable in a straight 30 weight.
One thing I'd like to add, it's not the reduction of "zinc" that is the issue. It's actually the phosphorus that does the anti-wear, the zinc is mainly just the carrier for the phosphorus. It's also what mucks up the catalytic converters in modern cars.

In the course of this subject being talked to death someone posted a statement from Valvoline stating that all of their oils are suitable for flat tappet engines. As automarc points out, a stock engine doers not require any high-performance oil or zinc additives. However on a fresh rebuild adding a can of zinc additive is cheap insurance during break in.

Definetly use a break in lube on a fresh rebuild during the break in period. GM EOS or Crane Cams Super Lube come very highly recomended, Valvoline/Rousch and Royal Purple (and perhaps others) also make a high ZDDP oil just for break in.
I will agree to the notion that, under normal use and with stock/mild modified use, the need for special oils should not be necessary. Proper assembly, properly mathced parts, and proper break in are really the most important things to keep in mind.

I was at my machine shop and they had a posting which stated they recommend Shell Rotella. Patrick's recommends VR1 and break in lube. Lucas oil also makes a break in lube that you can buy at just about any flaps.

My father sold oil for the company that developed ZDDP in oils in the 40's. When I was a kid, I would ride along with him when he called on potential customers. As a demonstration, he would have me crawl under the old GMC pickup and let the oil into a wash tub. He would drive about a 100 yards, turn around and put the oil back in. That sold a lot of oil. I still sell lubricants. I now like a moderate detergent oil in my old jalopies and I add this. http://www.zddplus.com/ I don't care for oils designed for Diesel engines in my old engines because they are more focused on holding Diesel soot in suspension than to cling to metal parts.

Amsoil has the following levels in 5 of their oils: AMO 10w40 Phosphous 1265 and Zink 1378. ARO 20w50 1266 phosphorus, zink 1379. JDD Series 3000 5w30 diesel Oil 1266 phosphorus, zink 1379. TRO 20w50 Racing Oil 1235 phosphorus, zink 1370. AHR SAE 60 Racing oil 1265 phosphorus, zink 1375.