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I've been working on wiring my 52 chevy pickup for that last year or so, Id get close to being done and then decide I don't like something I did and make changes. My next change is to do some rewiring on the ignition switch side so that not alot of current has to run through the ignition switch.

My current setup is a 10 gauge wire coming from my power distribution block on the firewall to the BATT post on the ignition switch. From there I have another 10 gauge wire going from the ACC post to the fuse block for the switched power circuits. From the COIL post I have a 12 gauge high amp wire going to the HEI distributor. And from the START post I have a 14 gauge wire going to the starter solenoid. I also have a small fuse block (4 fuses) that provides power to the computer for my throttle body fuel injection system. I split that in to 2 constant and 2 switched circuits, which gets power from the ignition switch BATT and COIL terminals.

I believe all this combined, has been too much current passing through the ignition switch as its all messed up (start post has power in run, acc post only has power when the key is in accessory, not both accessory and run like its suppose to).

Anyways sorry for the long post, just trying to explain my situation, but what Im wondering is, could I use two ford remote mount starter solenoids to switch power to the accessory side of the main fuse block and to the distributor. This way I would only need to run a 16 or 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the solenoids, which would get their main power from the power distribution block on the firewall. This way only the power to activate the solenoids (the two Im asking about and the actual starter solenoid) and the power for the computer would be running through the ignition switch.

I just want to make sure that the ford solenoids will have no problem having constant power going through them.

Thanks

They are not designed for continuous duty like that. I do use one for the starter circuit though. I put it down on the frame by the starter & wire it it to the solenoid. There are HD relays available for continuous duty, high amps. but I wouldn't run my HEI through it. You can get the small relays that are common on today's vehicles & run one each for heater & headlights. I would use a much larger fuse block. With all the accessories we add on today its good to have each one on a separate fuse.

I could be wrong here but if you are using one of those round ignition switches. It will only power the accesories hooked to to the acc. post when in the key is in the acc. position, and it will only work the other stuff hooked to the run side of the switch in the run position. But not both.
Anyway, the ford starter solenoids are way to heavy for the circuits you wish to connect. Go to your local parts supplier and ask to look through his electrical wiring/switch/relay book and you will find relays and niffty relay boxes or holders for this project. As I am not sure about the computer system you are using I can't say what amperage you need. Most of those systems use a 10 to 15 amp fuse (not much).
You said you have 12g. wire to your distributor HEI that sounds a little much but wont harm a darn thing.

thanks guys

I came across this at a place I buy some of my electrical stuff from. Looks like it should fit the bill. http://www.delcity.net/store/SPST-12V-85A-Insulated-Continuous-Solenoid/p_790160.a_1


I just got my new ignition switch, its by painless wiring and is a lot better quality than the one I had bought locally at autozone. I tested it with my multimeter and in run the accessory post does have power, so I must have overloaded the other switch and burned up some contacts.


I had some 12 gauge thin strand high current wire used for car stereo amplifiers, which is very flexible so I decided to use that for the distributor. Ive read many threads on HEI conversions and wasn't sure who to believe so I figured like you said, it wouldn't hurt to be safe than sorry.


Thanks again

Cris, that site you posted is great but the relay that is shown is way to much. All you need is a small square plastic relay about about 8-10 dollars at any parts house. A fog amp relay will work just fine.

One of those standard relays might be alright for the distributor from what Ive read, but for the accessory side of the fuse block, I doubt it would last long. My truck is not going to be stock by any means and will have a few goodies that will get their power through the accessory side of the fuse block.

There are continuous-duty relays that resemble the Ford starter switches in size and current capacity. Go to a motorhome dealer, and ask for a "battery isolation relay". They look just like a Ford starter switch, but they are intended to operate anytime the engine is running on a motorhome to charge the coach battery. Once the engine is shut off, the relay disconnects the coach battery from the starting battery to keep the engine-start battery from being drained while camping.

Just wire the relay's energize lead to close the relay whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" position, and wire all the heavy current draw circuits through the main contacts. Problem solved! I ran a Freightliner with the same setup on 20 clearance lights, with virtually no current draw across the toggle switch that controlled the relay.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry

The relay I posted a link to above is a continuous-duty relay. I decided to order it as I had other stuff I needed anyways. I will try a standard plastic relay for the distributor and see how it goes. Most seem to be rated up to 40-50 amps.

Thanks again guys

Chris, What are you going to run on these circuits that will pull more that 30 amps. A winch or a really large amp. might require such a relay but I would hook them directly to the battery. A winch would also need a master cutoff switch. But an amp needs only a 40 - 50 amp fuse.

Well I have a few items, but basically I just added up all the circuits on the accessory side to get a total amp draw. I will have power windows which will draw quite a few amps plus all the other circuits, which may only draw 10 amps or so but it starts to add up when other ciruits are also on at the same time. Better to put in a relay that should be more than up to the job than to put one in that I will have to keep replacing and eventually rewiring. This way its also got room to expand for the future as I could wire another switched circuit/device off the output of the relay.

Oh, in that case a couple of relays are in store. You know I said a fog lamp relay. Well what I ment was a Bosch 4 prong relay like used on most new cars these days. With power windows and locks you will need a 30 amp circuit breaker instead of a fuse to handle the power surge. Well good luck on this project and let us know how it go's.

I guess I should of explained myself better. The power windows will be protected by a circuit breaker, not a fuse, but will still be wired into the accessory side of the fuse block as it has a terminal for it. No circuit breaker for the door locks as I have door poppers which just require a fuse for the power to the module, but thats not switched anyways. Power seats will have a circuit breaker, but once again will not be switched.


I will certainly let everyone know how it goes.