The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Jig saw spitting out blades

I was trying to cut some 18 ga steel today with my jig saw (skill variable speed) and it just kept spitting out the blades.
It's tooless to install the blade, just slide the collar up and instert the blade. Blades stayed until I started cutting and yes I was using metal blades. Last I used this was for notching some 2x6's and it worked fine a few months ago. 5 or 6 years ago I cut a window hole into a PC case cover and it worked fine.

Any idea what's wrong?

Eric,

My first thought would be some debris in the doohickey that locks the blade to the saw. If the lock mechanism worked as it should, even with a blade jammed or friction welded in a cut, it seems like it should jerk your hand and the saw up and down before it ever released the blade.

I would take a real close look at the locking mechanism and look for dirt or crud. Spray some brake-kleen on it and a little shot of oil.

Stuart

or maybe the last blades you got aren't designed for the model of saw?

Bill

Just to check, what is the TPI (tooth per inch) on the blades? The higher that number, the better it should cut metal.

I cut some metal with mine, sometimes it does some wierd stuff, like kicking back on tight circles, and sparking at the blade. A cutoff wheel seems to work better, or the plasma cutter if I have a pattern (I can't freehand all that well).

Eric,
Do the metal cutting blades you got have the extra "little ears" on them for use with the tooless chuck on your jig saw ?

think i agree with red on this one...............dave

I had a craftsman POS quick change set-up that wouldn't keep hold of the blades too. It was a cheesy design that only worked in theory. I replaced it with a conventional style saw,
Scott

Hi All,

I have the same blades I have used for years and the package says "for Skill U-Lock collar" and I was using blades that said for metal.

I tried cleaning up the mechanism with PB blaster and then with electro-motive aerosol cleaner, similar to brake-kleen. No help.

I put in a multi-purpose blade and cross cut a 2x4, no sweat. Then back too a metal blade and cut 1" long in some 11 ga. I think maybe it came out once. After all that, it still wouldn't cut the 18 ga. Either the saw is gummed up or going bad or the steel was just too flimsy. Time will tell I suppose. Got out the cutting torch and made hay on the 18ga. Then I had to grind the slag off. Think i'll just stick to 3" cut-off wheels. All this so I can have some metal to learn to use my Mig Welder (Hobart 187 - .023 wire on gas & polarity correct). So far, I'm pretty good at blowing holes with the welder, but I remain optimistic and have a couple people that can give me hands on advice. If I can't get the hang of it on the thin stuff I'll cut up some of 11ga and give that go. I'll keep you all posted on that, but in a new thread.

I've got that saw. It relies on some friction between the collar and the blade to hold it in place, and if you get any oil on it it stops working right. Also, the slot can get wallowed out. It locks a bit better if you file the front of the blade into a K shape.

I'll clean it up, try the K slot and report back.

Thanks,

I tried cleaning it out with carb cleaner and then rubbing alcohol, but it was a notch on the back side of the blade that made it stay. Just sort of cut a V in using the edge of the bench grinder. Lot faster than filing. I tried the front, (tooth side) of the blade, that didn't work as well as the back side.

I think the trick to a jig saw is to keep Your work pic from vibrating try to clamp the pic between 2 2by 4s and run the saw up against the wood so You metal is not moving up and down with the saw blade worked for Me ,Pete

Pete52,s idea,Reds idea. SW Radial and R Bo,s idea. CHA CHING ! If that don,t work I,d fling er in the ol can, after I pulverized it with my SludgeHammer and sent a few M-80,s up its ying yang. Then off to Home Depot to get a new one,...problem solved.