The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Thinking of doing the Rustoelum Paint Job

So this sounds like a fun idea and a reasonable way to paint and protect the truck. It has some rust and some rust through on both doors but I think I can hit the library and figure how to patch - when you use the rollers does it leave lots of roller lines and how many coats did ya'll put on? I did the google search and will research further.
Thanks

I just put the rustoelum in the spray gun and went to it!!Yeah I thinned it a bit.

There's alot of good info on this web site. And check this out. It's pretty amazing. I'd go for it!

You will need to roll on enough to sand it smooth. Then roll on some more and sand it smooth. From what I read about, you can't just keep adding paint with out smoothing it out as you go. I have sprayed Rustoleum on trailers with great success. A little thinner and you are good to go. If it runs, sand it out and go again. Joe

I have found that the roller leaves too many lines, so I have used a sponge, a simple, small-cells, kitchen sponge from the dollar store, 10 sponges for a buck.
Lightly sand the old paint, dip the sponge in paint and I tap the sponge gently on the panels. Works great! I have done a '70 Impala in flat black, excellent finish, you do not even have to sand the flat finish! Usually 2 or 3 coats cover well.
Then throw away the sponge.

No lines at all if it is thinned properly and if you use the two roller method. Thinner is always better. Make sure you use the 4" foam rollers. You can even put them in a ziplock baggie and throw them in the freezer and re-use. Click on my link to see how my truck turned out.

Chuck

Try Sherwin WIlliams KEM SHURE or SHURE KEM, they'll know what you mean. High Gloss, High Solids, thins with xylene or Naptha, costs 30 bucks a gallon, doesn't run easy.....I painted some trailers with it, the fenders looked better than some OEM paint jobs. Rust Oleum costs as much and it isn't near as durable OR glossy. Get a qt and paint it on something, you won't be sorry. It is what I'll be using for my GMC

Roll, then "tip" with a quality brush. Like a Purdy. Depending on the temp, if you thin the paint, use "Penetrol", not paint thinner. Let the paint dry for at least a week, then polish. if you have runs, leave then for a few weeks to harden, and scrape with a single edge razor blade, and polish. That's what I did. If you thin the paint with thinner, you will kill the gloss. The roller puts the paint on the truck in an even coat, the brush is there only to smooth the paint. A light hand is all you need. No masking. No overspray. I used less than a half gallon of paint on my truck. Up in Canada, the paint is $30 a gallon. It looks perfect from ten feet, as you can see, and pretty good up close. No matter what you do though, its all about the surface prep. Sanding, filling, glazing putty. I ended up using a piece of ridgid foam insulation for my sanding block. The trick is to use the Penetrol though, it won't evaporate out of the paint too fast. You do need to work fast to maintain a wet edge though. It took me about 30 minutes per coat of actual painting time. And then you wait.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/HomeCrafter/IMGP0856.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/HomeCrafter/IMGP0857.jpg

Build up three or four coats, Robert is your father's brother.

I've seen Christofers paint job up close. Listen to his tips, it looks D@m Good!

Part 3 from over on Mopar.com, one member even paints a Corvette BLACK & has won trophey's w/it..Joe

I did a first coat with a 10 mm foam roller,... beware of doing it in direct sunlight,...them dam bubbles just don,t pop.

Sunlight is bad news. The tips on the brush will take care of the bubbles. Work small sections out.

this looks like an good option for me.

what about roll on primer? epoxy or otherwise.

The correct name is Sher-Kem. It looks to be a excellent alternative to Rustoleum.

The nice thing about the Sher-Kem is that it can be used with a hardening agent.

I am 99% sure I want to try this and you are th efirst to mention a hardening agent. How would you use that with a roller? anything to watch out for? I am tempted to try a tailgats, since that needs the paint the worst anyway,

One ohter question, my paint is relatively good already, hate the color, bbut there is some cracking,would simple sanding and feathering be enough or do I need to take it down to bare metal and then prime??

I just sanded and feathered out. Bondo where you need it. If there is any bubbling, or rust, you've got to get rid of that first, with your friend acid. I didn't prime. That way I can keep polishing it until I burn through it. And then paint again. Just like any touch ups, no primer, cause then it can be polished up.

thanks for that update, what does a hardening agent get me? stronger bond and stronger paint, or does it just improve drying time? Sorry for no experience in paint

Another item to your bag of tips and ideas is to view, read, request the Material Safety Data Sheet(MSDS). It will give you the dos and don'ts, mix ratios, temps,flash points and most anything needed to know about the paint product. Most important it will give you the safety requirements such as fire hazards, respirator types and requirements. Most shops, FLAPS will supply you with them and most are available online as well. Be safe! Have fun and good luck
Dan

I think you want the product data sheet which is different from the Material Safety Data Sheet. The MSDS is required by the feds to give you the safety information about the product. The product data sheet tells you how to mix the paint and apply it. They're both good to have though.

I used the rustoleum paint job on a 91 s-10 that I fixed up for my 16 year old son. He wrecked it about 2 months later. It was easy to replace the fenders and repaint. If you take your time and do it right it will turn out very good. You can't tell it from a regular paint job and it has held up well (2 years now) and it still looks good. It's not a show quality paint job but definately decent paint job for the money, but it is alot of work.

Mr Lang - Those pics are amazing! Thanks for the tips. What paint did you use exactly? I'd be a little nervous about trying this on my truck but I am certainly intrigued by the possibilities. Hmmmm...maybe. Good tip on the Penetrol too.

Also, has anyone here successfuly rolled on Sher-Kem? That sounds like a better paint and my online research has come up with that several people were going to give this a try but I was unable to find out what the results were. I also like the idea that the Sher-Kem can be tinted to any color. Any other thoughts on this subject?

I just used Tremclad Charleston Green. Rustoleum is the american version of Tremclad. Low dollar, lots of sweat equity.

I have a tail gate with a lot of suface rust, nothing real bad. I can sand it smooth, but I was wondering, since I am going gloss black, can I apply zero rust as a primer over it before the shur kem or rustoleoum? I have a spray can left over of zero rust and can put a light coat on