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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
F
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
I recently purchased a 5 carb McGurk intake manifold that I plan on installing on my recently rebuilt GMC 302. Since the motor is stock, I plan on only using the two outside carbs, and center carbs, blocking off the other two. SInce the manifold does not have a heat riser, do you think I will need to add one? If so, how should I modify it so that it still looks right??

Anyone done this before, I would like to see photo's.

THanks

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
Tom Langdon has the same set up on his 302. If you contact him, he might be able to help you set it up. What he basically did was to weld an aluminum pipe along the back of the intake at the bottom of the intake and runs water through to acheive a heated intake.

You can contact Tom at: stoveboltengineco.com

Joe smile


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
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T
Extreme Gabster
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Hey Formula,long time no hear.Yes,like the reply says,weld an aluminum pipe along the intake,it should have intimate contact along it's full length for proper heat tranfer.
I gave up on the thoughts of a multi carb set up on my 302,bought a single 4 bbl intake from Patrick's,using the same 390 Holley 4 bbl carb I had on the 261 Chevy engine previously in my 37 Chevy truck.
The 302 runs fantastic,mine ain't stock,one off custom forged pistons and cam,different valves etc.I figure it has about 250 HP,the looks on the face of the young drivers of 90's Mustangs is woth the price,lol.The engine pulls cleanly from 1000 rpm to redline.
I really like the looks of a multi carb setup,but because my hood is closed,no one knows the difference wink .
Try out the Mcgurk,see how it works for ya.I still have the beginnings of the 3 carb sheetmetal intake I was fabbing up,this winter I may finish it and try it out.

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
F
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
Hi Tony,
Good to hear from you. Yes, I am still here, and slowly making progress now that my son is 1 year old. Anyway, I need to find out how to post pictures on this, so that I can forward some recent shots. Let me know if you know how.

Regarding the mcgurk, I purchased it from Tom actually. The problem I see is that the three tube runners are so large, the run the full width of the intake, so not sure how to overcome this at the moment.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Formula1 -

You actually weld it to the back of the intake "log" at the bottom, so it doesn't interfere with the three "elbows" which bolt onto the log. That puts it behind the intake so you don't see it as you look at the intake when it's on the vehicle. I would use threaded aluminum pipe so you can put fitters on each end to set up your water heat with brass, aluminum or stainless tubing.
The only other thing that I would be sure of before you start on this project is that the back carb will clear the firewall. And, it's not just the carb, but whatever kind of air cleaner you use. That is the reason my McGurk is on an engine I have on the engine stand. It would not fit in the engine compartment. Other than that, I should look and function GREAT!! eek

Joe smile


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
Operators are standing by to take your calls!
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
F
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
6 cylindersovertexas,
Thank you for the detailed explaination. I did not think that would be the best approach, since the heat would be on the side only and not on the bottom, where I would think it would best benefit. Anyway, I will probably form up an aluminum 5 sided cover, that will allow me to fully weld to the "head side" of the intake, and add an inlet and outlet port for heat.

Where do you tap into to get the flow of coolant?

Lastly, I will check the firewall sitation, and since I am building the frame only right now, I will have to put the cab back on to check. If it's an aircleaner problem, I will get creative with something functional to solve.

Thanks


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