The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Spin on filter conversion for 261

My 59 Viking 60 has the canister type filter bolted to the manifold. It is a real chore to change the filter and keep it from leaking. Does anyone know where to get an assembly to replace the cannister filter and that would accept a spin on filter? Are there any functional differences between the two?

Make sure you get a filter with a restrictor or you will have no oil pressure.....I can go out to the garage for a Fram # if needed...

My 261 is a cartridge full flow, the 235 I think is a bypass filter. The 60 series should have had the 261??? Is that correct?

My cartridge filter has 1/2 lines going and out of the filter housing so I figure it is full flow and it has plenty of oil pressure.

May depend on what engine you have and if it is set up for full flow filter or not.

How big are the lines going to your filter? If you've got 1/2" diameter lines, you've got a full-flow system and you can adapt any remote filter setup to it by installing longer lines and mounting the filter bracket to the fender well. If it's got the 1/4" diameter lines it's the bypass type, and you'll need to install a restrictor somewhere in the circuit. I've used a Holley carburetor main jet threaded into the inlet fitting for the filter to cut the flow down and maintain oil pressure.
Jerry

Just to clarify, if you have the full flow setup (big lines), or if you switch to it (good idea), then you don't need or want a restricted fitting.

Grigg

The line are large and therefore must be a full flow. The engine is a 261. Although I would prefer to leave it where it is, I don't mind extending the lines and switching to another location, but where do I get the parts, particularly the head that accepts the filter? What do you call that part anyway? Thanks for your help guys.

Call it a remote oil filter head
here are a bunch to choose from
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...&searchinresults=false&N=700+115

Grigg

Moroso has a converter adapter for a v-8 chevy, that converts the can to a spin on. this is the link:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr.+Gasket/751827/10002/-1

JEGS could not give me information that the remote head for a six cyl and the block mount for an 8 cyl were the same

Wix offers conversion kits so should be available through your local flaps. Wix number 24764. Should accept a Wix 51515 filter.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/conversion.asp

This is what we sell at work.

They are not the same.

You just need the spin on filter housing that you can mount wherever you please. You don't need an adapter (block mount)like pictured in your link. That adapter is for an engine already with a spin on filter to then run lines to a remote filter head.

Here is a remote-mount spin-on filter on a 1960 261. It is a Perma-Cool 1793 that has 1/2" NPT ports ans 13/16"-16 filter thread.

Here is the same head in another location and using a different location for the oil filter "mechanical" sender line. If I was going to run the oil lines past the exhaust pipes again, I'd put in metal "stand-off" tubes to clear the exhaust pipes (as was similarly done with the original canister filter's lines, even with the single exhaust).

Tim

First, I want to thank you for the great photos of your remote oil filter installation on your 261.

I am in the process of setting mine up like that. I am having a problem with the return line, which as you stated is very tight. I am using -8AN to 1/2 mpt adapters with straight AN hose ends on the block and Permacool filter housing.

I have tried using Russell and Aeroquip fittings for this line and the fittings are too long to allow me to make the bend. It looks like your fittings are shorter. What brand did you use?

Joe,

I think I used the following parts (from Summit Racing):

EAR-303008ERL 3 FT. -8 AUTO-FLEX 1
EAR-809108ERL -8 90 DEGREE TUBE SWIVEL-SEAL 1
EAR-820188ERL ST. 1/2 NPT TO -8 HOSE 3

In addition, I used a 1/2" stand-off pipe with a 1/2" female NPT to -8 AN adapter (slide 22 : AER-FBM2730). If this does not make sense, I'll provide more detailed information.

I bought at least different 4 sizes/brands of fittings from Summit Racing before I got a set that fit; and, Summit Racing kindly took the unused pieces back with full refund (I only had to pay the return shipping). I'll do business with them any time.

What type of choke(s) are you using (mechanical, electrical, or heated water)?

Tim

Tim,

I also use Summit Racing quite a bit and am happy with them. I particularly like the fact that I can order late in the day and the parts arrive the next day from their Atlanta warehouse.

I am using dual Carter-Webers with electric chokes. I notice that you used an oil pressure switch for the chokes. The instructions I got from Tom Langdon said to hook them up to the ignition switch run terminal. I've thought about the difference and I can't think why either way wouldn't give the same result unless you left the ignition on for some reason when the truck wasn't running. Am I missing something?

Joe,

You are not missing anything.

I did not want to run another line back to my ignition switch.

In addition, I did not want the choke to stay warm if the engine stopped running and the ignition was left on.

Tim